Rolf's TL-1A

[Sonic Mountain]

I would just focus on that end of the neck for a bit. I've found a couple of my kits had a bit of a 'ski jump' going on at that end. It won't hurt to have them slightly lower. You can take a fair bit of meat off the frets safely, most future fret wear tends to occur in the first 3 frets and then 5-9.

[RocknRolf]

Thank you Sonic Mountain, I am a fan of ski jumps in a different context, but will eliminate this one. As you said focussing on that end of the neck.

[RocknRolf]

Took some time to mentally prepare to do the headstock. I did not want it to look off... But I had this idea of lowering one part of the headstock... I thought: Nah Rolf don't be so stupid, what if you make a mistake with the router... But what if you don't?!

I did not! Happy with the result.

[McCreed]

That's pretty radical Rolf! (maybe you need to change your user name! "RadicalRolf"!)
I'm too much of a traditionalist to try something like that, but it looks cool.

[Sonic Mountain]

Yeah that's neat. I'm a fan of wierdo headstocks

[RocknRolf]

Haha Thank you @McCreed, to me radical would be leaving out the whole side "wing", I could never do that... Way to traditional for that.

And Thanks @Sonic Mountain, I guess weird is good, on going topic in my life.

I never really got the Telecaster headstock shape, but in saying that, shaping a headstock yourself, you come to realize how hard it is to not make it look funky and off.

[Sonic Mountain]

I never really got the Telecaster headstock shape, but in saying that, shaping a headstock yourself, you come to realize how hard it is to not make it look funky and off.

PREACH!

There is such a fine line between cool and yuck. And that line varies for everyone.

[RocknRolf]

I have been reading in on the finishing of the guitar: Sanding, grain filling, adding dye, and finish.
I am after a high gloss finish on the body, a burst on the top veneer and a darker burst with a raised grain on the ash back.

Thinking and questioning out loud:
- Back: I contrast-grain fill the back with timbermate / sand back / create burst / apply finish?
- Top: I dye the veneer top and try to level using a lacquer? Or do I use a transparent filler somewhere in the process?

Additional question on finishing:
- What do you guys use to get a gloss-finish and is widely available here in Australia? Not super keen on the toxicity of Nitro though do want that shiny finish..

Any suggestions would be really helpful as I have spent a good couple of hours researching this fast forum and am still left with question marks

[Sonic Mountain]

I use either automotive acrylic lacquer (like you would find at supercheap) or Cabots Exterior Poly Gloss (Big green shed) for clear. They are similar to apply, but I think the ploy takes less work to get a really high gloss finish and is a much harder finish once cured. The automotive stuff I find pretty forgiving, but I also have a lot of experience with it, so that might colour my idea of hard it is to get right.

The principle with each is the same, multiple applications over a period of weeks allowing each application to dry and cutting it back flat with fine grade (1500-2000) wet and dry in between coats. With the acrylic you then need to cut it back and buff it, where as with the poly, if you can get a nice dust free coat on it, it flattens out a lot as it drys and doesn't really need buffing after.

Some samples

Acrylic:









Poly:

Just sprayed



After hanging for a couple of days.

[king casey]

SuperCheap SCA gloss has given me excellent results.

Cabot's Exterior Gloss may be O.K. on wood finish, however when applied over paint started to peel off.
I'm currently re-sanding my JM1 which had it applied and it's coming off like clear vinyl sheeting.

cheers, Mark.