Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 33

Thread: Building our first Bass Guitar

  1. #21
    Overlord of Music FrankenWashie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Glebe, NSW
    Posts
    4,558
    Quote Originally Posted by Fatman View Post
    Hello all--

    Problem 2--any advice on removing the standard nut and replacing with the bone nut?
    Step 1: Wrap the headstock, behind the nut with a couple of layers of Masking tape.
    Step 2: do the same on the Fretboard, below the nut, right up to the nut.
    Step 3; Take a small wood block, the same width as the nut, but taller and sit it against the nut, along the Fretboard.
    Step four: Pick up your hammer, say a quiet prayer and give the end of the wood block a sharp tap.

    Repeat, if needed, until the nut gets the hint. A single good sharp tap should do it though.

    you may need to clean glue gunk off the nut area afterward, but it should go cleanly provided factory didn't go hog wild with the CA glue.
    New nut can be set in place with a couple of drops of Gel type CA glue.

    Hope this helps.
    FrankenLab Guitar Experiments.
    Where Common Sense hides under the bench and averts its eyes!

  2. #22
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    3,143
    I find -
    1. cut around the edges with a sharp edge - stanley knife / box cutter - should minimise splits;
    2. using a hacksaw cut 2/3 of the way through the nut lengthwise - don't need to be too specific;
    3. grab a pair of pliers and squeeze.
    Should come off easily.

  3. #23
    Overlord of Music FrankenWashie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Glebe, NSW
    Posts
    4,558
    Quote Originally Posted by Brendan View Post
    I find -
    1. cut around the edges with a sharp edge - stanley knife / box cutter - should minimise splits;
    2. using a hacksaw cut 2/3 of the way through the nut lengthwise - don't need to be too specific;
    3. grab a pair of pliers and squeeze.
    Should come off easily.
    Thats the method I use for the F style ones, Iíve found the G style ones are more easily tapped off, though the scoring around the periphery is a good practice to get into. Hence itís one I forget to do!
    FrankenLab Guitar Experiments.
    Where Common Sense hides under the bench and averts its eyes!

  4. #24
    Great stuff--thanks guys. Knowing it's glued in and to score the edges gives me more confidence.

  5. #25
    The wiring dummy again. I moved the wires so the final wiring was like the Pitbull one Brendan sent. Now the neck pick-up volume has no effect. Do I have a bad pick-up or pot? Or should I rewire it like it came from the factory? Thanks again guys.

  6. #26
    Thanks so much for advice

  7. #27
    Hi All--

    We are also putting together an ATL-1QB and I am looking for some advice on how to copper shield the controls. The body is hollow on both sides with an F-hole on one side and only a hole cut in on the other side to mount the controls, which are mounted to the pick guard. So there are no "sides" onto which to put the copper, but just a hollow cavity one third the size of the guitar. Thanks.

  8. #28
    I assume this is an issue with any hollow body guitar.

  9. #29
    Mentor fender3x's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Miami, FL, USA
    Posts
    680
    It's not usually possible to sheild on a semi-hollow, but yours might be an exception because the control hole is relatively large.

    Best I have been able to do with an ES 335 type is use shielded cable between the components. The pickup wires should already be sheilded.

    I don't think there is a way to shield the whole cavity with tape. However you could take a page from Danelectro and build a shielded box that the controls fit in. It should attach to the control plate and drop in. Or it could be inside the cavity. It doesn't have to be thick or strong. The old Dano boxes were made of cardboard with conductive tape or paint on them I think.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  10. #30
    Got it--thanks. Sounds like a workable solution, I'll try it. Great to have the support for the uninitiated.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •