Is this the layout you're wanting?
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Is this the layout you're wanting?
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Build #1 - TLA-1Q
Build #2 - Scratch Thinline Tele
Build #3 - Scratch Rickenbacker 330/12
Build #4 - Scratch All Aussie Timber Strat
Build #5 - 1st Violin/Fiddle
Pedal Build #1 - Aion Gale
Pedal Build #2 - Aion Aurora
so what i did was go off and look at all the wires and i believe that the diagram Woltz has provide is right.
hello again. so i have done a mock fit of the electrics and have a major issue. the cord connecting the back pickup (next to the saddles) is not long enough to reach the three way switch. the front two pickups (near the neck) can reach it with ease but not the back. so my question is what do i do?
You can just solder another piece of wire to the end of the leads on the pickup to the required length.
Just be sure to insulate the connection with heat shrink tubing or at least electricians tape (not the best choice but it works).
There should be a small roll of wire that came with the kit just for this purpose and for connecting the common grounds.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Yes. 22 or 24 AWG is fine for guitar (import guitars often use even finer gauge). I'm sure there should have been some hook-up wire included with the kit.
If not, just go to a nearby electronics store and tell them you want hook-up wire for a guitar. Hopefully they'll know just what you need.
It sold by the metre (or foot, depending where you're from). 1 metre (3 feet) is typically enough to do an entire guitar and more than you'll need for your project, but it's always good to have extra wire kicking around.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
hello everyone long time no see. so i have finished the body and have added a clear coat to the fret board using an aerosol. I have raised this issue before about removing the finish from the frets. i have tried using a scalpel but have found that i can't get it to work. my question is can i use a chemical (acetone, goof off) to remove it or not??
Last edited by PHILLIAJ; 21-07-2019 at 10:57 AM.
I doubt you'd be able to keep any solvent off of the areas you want to leave the clear coat, so, no. I wouldn't do it.my question is can i use a chemical (acetone, goof off) to remove it or not??
With the scalpel or modelling knife etc, you need to carefully score the clear coat kind of "under" the fret as well as the fret ends. if the lacquer/poly whatever isn't cured/dried fully, it can be harder to remove in one piece, but with persistence you should be able to get it all off.
You want to be careful not to slice or scratch the fret wire though (nor do you want to cut into the fingerboard.
It's a fiddly job but it's just part of guitar building. Shouldn't take more than 30-45 minutes to do a 22 fret neck. (an hour max?)
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
I'd just tape off the (edit) fretboard either side of the frets and go at it with steel wool.
Life is too short.
cheers, Mark.