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Thread: RC-1 Custom 25.5 Scale Bolt on Neck

  1. #21
    Painted the body a dark metallic teal green....after it was dry I removed the binding but had some bad luck with unmasking...will need to re-apply again...doh!


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  2. #22
    Member I値l give it a go's Avatar
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    That痴 a shame, did you let it dry too long?


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  3. #23
    no idea....it may have something to do with the cold weather lately....?

  4. #24
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Possibly the tape used. Hopefully it was some kind of painters tape- its defintly worth spending money on decent tape, makes a world of difference.

    I normally un-tape when the paint is still tacky, very carefully pulling it back onto itself away from the painted edge. Can help limit that jagged edge tearing.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  5. #25
    I've got some non-paper based masking tape this time which I will try...I'll also remove it after 1-2 hours as you suggest

    I might as well wet sand the whole thing and respray the whole thing as well....?

    If all else fails, I'll paint over the binding and move onto the clear coating.....

  6. #26
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    I'd probably go over the whole thing again, if for no other reason than metallics are difficult to patch and blend well. You can usually see it once its cleared, so getting an even spray all over is worth while. Just get good laydown in that area first and then give it a light once over so its even.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  7. #27
    Put another layer of paint on, this time with a "fine" masking tape. Turned out OK in the end. I just need to clean the binding up on the guitar face with a razor blade then clear coat.

    I used an acrylic lacquer for the colour coat....what are people's opinions on dry time before I can clear coat? 24hrs OK?

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  8. #28
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Yeah that's fine for clears, but then let that harden as long as you can before cutting and polishing. I normally do a couple of coats of clear with a day or two between each and then leave it - just so there is plenty to cut back without going through.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  9. #29
    I've put 4 coats of clear on...a 400ml can....Is that enough or should I apply some more?

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  10. #30
    I think I'll put on another can of clear (a total of 8x coats)....just to prevent me from sanding through the clear....

    Is it necessary to sand between clear coats? Or can I do this at the end?

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