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Thread: RC-1 Custom 25.5 Scale Bolt on Neck

  1. #11
    Hi all,

    I have 2 question that it would be great to get your feedback on.

    1. Body prep for painting - many a website mentions that "naptha" is best for removing grease/oil on the body. What have you used? What got good results? Lighter fluid? Windex? Do any of these chemical risk removing the glue binding?

    2. I left some masking tape on my maple fretboard overnight which had the effect of raise the grain. What's the best way to settle this down baring in mind I plan to finish both the neck and fretboard with tru-oil. Sanding? If so, what grit? Steel Wool?

  2. #12
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    I personally use Prepwash before painting. You can get it at most paint places or Supercheap/Autobarn:

    https://www.autobarn.com.au/motospra...-500ml-prep500

    I normally buy the spay can version. Also a good idea to give it a run over with a Tack Cloth to pick up any stray bits of dust.

    Not sure re the fretboard. I wouldn't use steel wool on the maple as it can make a grey stain on it, so maybe just some fine grit non clog paper? Depends on how bad it is I suppose.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  3. #13
    Member I値l give it a go's Avatar
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    RC-1 Custom 25.5 Scale Bolt on Neck

    I used wire wool on my maple fret board and it looks a few years old already and I致e not even put it together and played it yet. I don稚 mind the used look though.


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    Last edited by I値l give it a go; 13-06-2019 at 11:19 AM.

  4. #14
    Member ILRGuitars's Avatar
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    1. I use a little metho ) as metho will evaporate easily ) or Goof Off to clean up. But only a little, just be careful around the binding. I used Goof Off to clean up the bindings on my ES when the stain ran, and it was fine.
    2. Sand with sandpaper - 240 grit is fine. Don't use a paper that is too fine, as it will effectively close the pores, and won't allow the Tru Oil to penetrate,

  5. #15
    great, thanks for the advice.

  6. #16
    Primer applied to headstock and body....I ended up going with Dupli-colour auto primer.

    I borrowed a proper 3M respirator thankfully....nasty smell.

    Despite a cold day, it went well. I'll give it a gentle sand then proceed with the colour this weekend. Click image for larger version. 

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  7. Liked by: Danny B

  8. #17
    Member I値l give it a go's Avatar
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    That痴 coming along really well mate .


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by aido78 View Post
    Primer applied to headstock and body....I ended up going with Dupli-colour auto primer.

    I borrowed a proper 3M respirator thankfully....nasty smell.

    Despite a cold day, it went well. I'll give it a gentle sand then proceed with the colour this weekend. Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Primer2.jpg 
Views:	18 
Size:	394.7 KB 
ID:	31389Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	16 
Size:	190.3 KB 
ID:	31390
    I used Duplicolour paint and clear coat acrylic for my build. It gives great results, but does seem to take a quite a while to cure properly. A rough rule of thumb - between 3 and 7 days before I was happy it was done.

    I learned to poke it - if my fingerprint remained as a texture then it was not yet cured. The good news, a quick rub and the fingerprint would disappear.

  10. #19
    Thanks for the feedback..I guess dry time is dependant on your application thickness, humidity and temp...I'm in Melbourne and it's been freezing lately......

    Just curious, what's everyone's view on sanding metallic (looking) paint finishes prior to clear coat? Yes or no?
    Last edited by aido78; 20-06-2019 at 10:12 AM.

  11. #20
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    I don't normally sand metallic before clear coating. On the Cort resto I'm doing at the moment after I had done a second coat of metallic (due to imperfections in the first) I let it flash off for 15 minutes and then gave it a hit with clear. When that drys fully I'll give it a light knock back and then do several more coats of clear so there is plenty to cut and polish.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

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