My first PBG TLA-1 build

[I’ll give it a go]

Well I finally pick it up from the post office today, very excited. It looks ok and there are no major ding spots.
I think the scratch plate is a little off. It makes things look bong eyed, pushing the neck out and the knobs and switches off centre.


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[Fretworn]

The pick guard should be an easy fix. Just some minor filing should get it back to square with the guitar.

[I’ll give it a go]

Does this look ok so far to you guys? 25.5” this is to the low E. There is lots of room for the high E to move.


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[I’ll give it a go]

Also gonna take this amount off the pick guard.


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[I’ll give it a go]

Last post for the night, getting tired. It’s fitting much better since I shaved the over hanging pick guard.


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[king casey]

Here's a comparison between a Fender bridge and the kit one.

The Fender is mounted as far back as it will go before exposing the under-lying rout.


The holes for the string-through are set further back on the kit bridge.
If you intend to swap out the kit bridge for another (ie. Fender or Wilkinson), the holes are going to be out of place.

On this kit I've found that the neck rout together with the pickup rout are 1 cm further back than a Fender,
but the control cavity is not.
Supplied with a Fender spec. pickguard though, so the bridge will be further south than a genuine Fender.

You either live with the out-of-place bridge, or (like I did) make a new pickguard slightly longer to compensate.

cheers, Mark.

[I’ll give it a go]

Here's a comparison between a Fender bridge and the kit one.

The Fender is mounted as far back as it will go before exposing the under-lying rout.


The holes for the string-through are set further back on the kit bridge.
If you intend to swap out the kit bridge for another (ie. Fender or Wilkinson), the holes are going to be out of place.

On this kit I've found that the neck rout together with the pickup rout are 1 cm further back than a Fender,
but the control cavity is not.
Supplied with a Fender spec. pickguard though, so the bridge will be further south than a genuine Fender.

You either live with the out-of-place bridge, or (like I did) make a new pickguard slightly longer to compensate.

cheers, Mark.

Thanks Mark,

I don’t mind living with it as is actually. Seems ok so far.

Now I’ve got this far would you recommend I clamp the neck up and drill the neck?


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[king casey]

I would clamp it in position and then establish the centre line and the 25.5" scale length to determine bridge placement.
Have a gander at my build diary to see where it goes.
Remember the 25.5" is the point where the high 'E' will sit with the rest of the strings set back a bit.
Being your first build, use a pencil, so you can rub it out and do it over again.
Are you going to do the 'string through' or 'top' through the back of the bridge?
I would mount the strings through the back of the bridge first and make sure intonation is adequate and that the bridge is mounted correctly.
cheers, Mark.

[I’ll give it a go]

I would clamp it in position and then establish the centre line and the 25.5" scale length to determine bridge placement.
Have a gander at my build diary to see where it goes.
Remember the 25.5" is the point where the high 'E' will sit with the rest of the strings set back a bit.
Being your first build, use a pencil, so you can rub it out and do it over again.
Are you going to do the 'string through' or 'top' through the back of the bridge?
I would mount the strings through the back of the bridge first and make sure intonation is adequate and that the bridge is mounted correctly.
cheers, Mark.

Thanks Mark, I’m going to keep it simple and have the strings through the bridge. I’m not going to drill though the body.

Right plan of attack tomorrow then will be to clamp and re measure. Cheers.


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[I’ll give it a go]

This is where I’ve got to so far. Bridge not screwed in yet as I’m going to paint it not stain.

Should I drill the holes for the neck now?


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