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Thread: My first PBG TLA-1 build

  1. #41
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    The exposed wood won't really be a problem, undercoat/primer is mostly there to make paint stick, which generally isn't difficult with wood, but more important with metals and plastics like on automobiles.

    Any areas where it's showing through will look furry after the first top coat application. Successive coats and sanding in between will smooth it out.

    I would keep going to get rid of the orange peel, if you can see it now, it will definitely show up in the top coats. I'd probably be tempted to do another pass with undercoat after getting it flat and then giving that a flatten as well.

    The more work you do getting it spot on now, the better the finished result will be, with painting, prep is 90% of a good final finish.

    Make sure you give each coat a decent amount of time to dry or you will find the finish will sink back into the grain a few months down the track.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"


  2. #42
    Member I’ll give it a go's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by king casey View Post
    I'm probably not the best person to reply.
    I will say however, to get the best possible result, you need to have the base flat as you can.
    Good thing with the undercoat is that it shows up all the blemishes. I don't think exposed wood would be a problem.
    I'd probably keep sanding it. What grit are you down to?
    I read that 320 is good if you are going to paint.

    BTW out of curiosity, what is the final colour going to be?

    cheers, Mark.
    I’ve been using 240, 400, 800 then finish with 1200.

    Colour wise I’ve changed my mind so many times but I’m going to stick with what I originally wanted to do which was Surf Green.


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  3. #43
    Member I’ll give it a go's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    The exposed wood won't really be a problem, undercoat/primer is mostly there to make paint stick, which generally isn't difficult with wood, but more important with metals and plastics like on automobiles.

    Any areas where it's showing through will look furry after the first top coat application. Successive coats and sanding in between will smooth it out.

    I would keep going to get rid of the orange peel, if you can see it now, it will definitely show up in the top coats. I'd probably be tempted to do another pass with undercoat after getting it flat and then giving that a flatten as well.

    The more work you do getting it spot on now, the better the finished result will be, with painting, prep is 90% of a good final finish.

    Make sure you give each coat a decent amount of time to dry or you will find the finish will sink back into the grain a few months down the track.
    Brilliant, thanks Sonic.


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  4. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by I’ll give it a go View Post
    I’ve been using 240, 400, 800 then finish with 1200.
    Unless somebody comes along and contradicts... I'd have thought the 1200 would be after you have applied the clear coats on top.

    cheers, Mark.


  5. #45
    Member I’ll give it a go's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by king casey View Post
    Unless somebody comes along and contradicts... I'd have thought the 1200 would be after you have applied the clear coats on top.

    cheers, Mark.
    Ok thanks Mark, Everyday a learning day. Loving it, thanks.


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  6. #46
    Just trying to save you some elbow grease.

    cheers, Mark.


  7. #47
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    I only sanded the primer up to 400 grit. Then spray colour and then clear. The clear I sanded from 1000 to 2000. I found that worked ok for me. And in regards to those little imperfections, the more work you do at this point getting it flat the better the outcome will be. I'd be doing as sonic suggested.


  8. #48
    Member I’ll give it a go's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woltz View Post
    I only sanded the primer up to 400 grit. Then spray colour and then clear. The clear I sanded from 1000 to 2000. I found that worked ok for me. And in regards to those little imperfections, the more work you do at this point getting it flat the better the outcome will be. I'd be doing as sonic suggested.
    Thanks Woltz,

    Where did you get the 2000 from as in BGS I’ve only seen 1200?


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  9. #49
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Supercheap or Autobarn do up to 2000. As others have said 1200 is overkill for undercoat. I’d normally go to 600-800 grit before top coats.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"


  10. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    Supercheap or Autobarn do up to 2000. As others have said 1200 is overkill for undercoat. I’d normally go to 600-800 grit before top coats.
    Co-incidentally I was in my local AutoBarn yesterday and they had just taken delivery of 2 large cardboard boxes full with Auto Touch-up spray paint.
    Talk about spoiled for choice. Decided that the Squier's next colour change would be a metallic purple.
    Seriously thinking of actually painting my current TL-R now also...but what colour?

    cheers, Mark.

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