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Thread: First Build: JZ-1

  1. #1

    First Build: JZ-1

    Hi everyone!

    JZ-1 kit arrived in the mail a few days ago, finally got to open it today and can't wait to get started! I'm shooting for a a clean, factory looking build, nothing too fancy for my first kit. I've had a quick mock build and nothing seems to be missing, although the neck has quite a bit of lateral wiggle in the pocket that I'm not stoked about (not unfixable though!).

    I'll post some pics in the next few days, keep an eye out!

  2. #2
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Welcome to the forum mate. looking forward to seeing some pics of this bad boy
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed and upgraded
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed | Co-Winner-May 2016 GOTM | Runner up GOTY 2016
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed | Runner up Feb 2017 GOTM
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed | Co-Winner - July 2017 GOTM
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1
    Current Build #12 - ATL1SB

  3. #3
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Hornsby Area, Sydney, NSW
    Welcome Flying Kiwi

    First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
    Scratchie lapsteel
    Custom ST-1 12 String (to be converted to 6 string)
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Scratchie 12 string
    Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck

  4. #4
    Overlord of Music FrankenWashie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Glebe, NSW
    Oh chur cuz! Welcome to the pbg whanau!
    FrankenLab Guitar Experiments.
    Where Common Sense hides under the bench and averts its eyes!

  5. #5
    Member OliSam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Welcome matie!

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Hello everyone! Apologies for the radio silence over the last few weeks. I've actually gone right through and pretty much finished the project Here are the photos and a walk-through of the process anyhow.

    First off, a mock build with components loosely put and place and delicately laid out so as not to scratch the dining table. The scale length looked good (which is fortunate because re-drilling the bridge holes would have been a bit out of my depth). As I said in the first post, the neck was a bit loose in its slot. but after some wiggling I managed to find an orientation that left both E-strings fairly parallel.

    Over to my grandpa's workshop to borrow his coping-saw and cut out the head-stock! I downloaded a Jazzmaster template and copied it fairly accurately onto the wood, but cut a bit too close to the lines with the saw and after sanding ended up with a more rounded shape (which I actually quite like anyhow). In the left of the photo are my work gloves, which I put between the vice and my neck to prevent any damage

  7. #7
    Onto the painting! This was a learning process for me, and if I do end up building another guitar I will definitely be doing some things a bit differently...
    Firstly, I don't know that I'd recommend anyone copying my high-tech painting rig:

    This was borne out of a lack of clamps and suitable scrap wood. It wasn't the worst in that it allowed me to apply coats to the entire body at once, but was a bit of a pain in that it would swing around. I ended up borrowing a clamp from my grandpa

    I opted to apply paint and finish by hand rather than spraying - I wanted a slightly creamier version of Olympic White and couldn't quite find the right shade in any spray cans. I bought two enamel-based paints and thinned them out with a bit of water (about a paint-water ratio of 70:30) and rubbed them on with a clean cotton rag. I did around 6 coats, allowing 12 hours to dry and a light sand with 800 grit in between.

    I made things slightly harder for myself by deciding that I wanted a retro painted head-stock, as well as a racing stripe on the body (which should increase my playing speed by 25%). I didn't mask either perfectly and had to go back and do several rounds of touch-ups. Close up it's still a bit rough on some of the edges, but from the distance most people will be seeing it, it looks good.

  8. #8
    For the finish, I rubbed on 5-6 coats of Tru Oil with a cotton rag and sanded with 1200 grit or polished with 0000 steel wool between coats (sorry, I forgot to take photos!). This stuff stinks to high hell and has a slightly yellowish tinge, which can look quite ugly if its builds up in any spots. That being said, it's a really nice finish with a good shine and has the advantage of not needing to be sprayed on.

  9. #9
    I check to see the curvature of the neck with my professional Stew Mac Luthier's Neck Tool (read: meter rule with slots filed out) and saw that it was a bit convex. Easily fixed with a quarter turn to loosen the truss rod.

  10. #10
    I need to confess at this point that I have made a bit of a dog's breakfast with the wiring and plan on redoing it when the shops open again tomorrow and I can buy supplies.

    The main issue is a constant buzzing that disappears when I touch the wires (or the bridge) - this would be a grounding issue right? The volume pot does something a bit odd as well: when at 10 the signal is quite clear (albeit a bit quieter than I would've expected), but as I turn it down to 0 the background buzz gets louder (peaking at about 5) and drops afterwards. Have I damaged with excess heat when soldering?

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