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Thread: Es-1g 335!

  1. #1

    Es-1g 335!

    Hi Guys,
    I am glad to join this fabulous thread and community I am embarking on the build of and ES-1G that I would like to look like the following picture!
    A few first thoughts:
    -Do you sand the veneer?
    -Do you apply any wood fillers?
    -Do you apply a first coat of black dye, sand, then green dye?
    -Then what about the headstock? Black lacker then clear?
    -Finally what finish do you recommend if you don't want the finish to be too shiny? True oil?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thank you!

  2. #2
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    A few first thoughts:
    -Do you sand the veneer? Not really and if so only very gently - they're only 0.6mm thick.
    -Do you apply any wood fillers? Can do - depends on the look you are going for...
    -Do you apply a first coat of black dye, sand, then green dye?
    -Then what about the headstock? Black lacker then clear?
    -Finally what finish do you recommend if you don't want the finish to be too shiny? True oil? I've used TruOil applied with a piece of 1800 grit wet and dry to give the smoothest satin finish to a natural body - still my favourite finished guitar.

    Thank you!

  3. #3
    Thanks Brendan that is awesome!
    Do you think I need to do a coat of black/dark stain first and then green to achieve the color of the Guild I posted?
    thanks man!

  4. #4
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    -Do you sand the veneer? like Brendan says - best not
    -Do you apply any wood fillers? - again, as B says you can. I use a sanding sealer and I find that water based pine colour putty is a good match for filling problem joints and other small flaws.
    -Do you apply a first coat of black dye, sand, then green dye? Yes you can, but not on the top if you want to keep any veneer, you will sand through it I'd guess removing the black before staining with green
    -Then what about the headstock? Black lacker then clear? I have used black wood stain and then clear-coated which works OK, also sprayed with black paint then clear, that works too
    -Finally what finish do you recommend if you don't want the finish to be too shiny? True oil? Haven't used that, I know many who love it. I use Cabots clearcoat turps based, the satin goes on lovely out of a spray can and is very hard wearing. About $15 from the green shed, enough to do the whole guitar

  5. #5
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    BTW experiment with the staining on a scrap piece of timber of a similar type to see what happens - don't experiment on the instrument as I have!

  6. #6
    Member ILRGuitars's Avatar
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    Hope this helps:

    -Do you sand the veneer? See below. Sand the back and edges with 240 or 320 grit. Don't go finer as the pores of the wood still need to be open enough to accept the stain. Once the coats of lacquer are going on then you can smooth and polish it up.
    -Do you apply any wood fillers? No need
    -Do you apply a first coat of black dye, sand, then green dye? First of all: Check for glue spots! I used diluted coats of black ink until I was happy with the depth of colour. This also helped find any glue spots I had missed. I then very lightly sanded back, only enough to remove the raised grain, then added the colour coats. Try not to get the veneer too wet as the water can weaken the glue and raise the veneer.
    -Then what about the headstock? Black lacquer then clear? Paint or stain with clear lacquer is ok.
    -Finally what finish do you recommend if you don't want the finish to be too shiny? True oil? Beware of TruOil. It will yellow over time and affect the original colour. Please take this into consideration. As my Tele is now a crap green colour but my ES 330 is still lovely. Green plus yellow equals lime green. You can get spray lacquer of different finishes; gloss, satin,etc.

    Try all this on scrap wood, experiment, read, research and make notes (especially when mixing your colour ratios for the final colour).

    Sounds like alot to do? It's better to take small steps than one giant step of a cockup.

    Most of all: Be patient.

    Hope it helps.

  7. #7
    Great advice there, thank you so much. I should be getting the kit soon and hopefully be able to make a nice axe.

  8. #8
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here is where I am right now, I am finishing with a matte nitro lacquer, should I polish it when I am done?

  9. #9
    No you don’t want to polish the matte finish. It will become shiny if you do.

  10. #10
    Really cool, so just a light sanding to finish and make the finish even? 2500-3000 grit?
    thanks!

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