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Thread: First Build (ST-1M)

  1. #1

    First Build (ST-1M)

    Hi All,
    First time builder with one of the mahogany bodied ST-1m.



    I finished sanding, and applied 5 light coats of tru-oil, wet sanding between the 3rd and 4th with 400 grit, and then buffing finally with steel wool.





    I'm pretty happy with the results, I wanted a fairly matte result. I'm hoping that once it's all set up some UV exposure will darken the mahogany body up nicely!

    I also started roughly carving out the headstock - going for a basic F style. Which I've smoothed out but haven't taken a photo of yet...


  2. #2
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    Looking good and the obligatory toe shot! Just like a regular... Love the colour of the body.

  3. #3
    Lookin' good!
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
    #002 (WL-1)
    #003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
    #004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
    #005 (LP jr)
    #006 (TL-1A)

    Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
    'The TGS Special'

  4. #4
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    i like it! There's some kooky grain oddness going on there that works quite well. Nice Job!
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  5. #5
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    that body looks good, the mismatched grain is interesting to look at. nice finish on the body too.

  6. #6
    So I finished the neck, three light tru-oil coats rubbed with steel wool... I don't think there is much on there but it feels pretty nice. I strung it up and here it is.



    One quick question. The bridge height adjustment screws are all maxed out and there is still a fair amount of string buzz etc... I'm guessing I might need to shim the neck, as well as a fret level and crown? I've heard of people using a slice of milk carton as the shim has anybody had any luck with doing that? Or any other guidance. As you can see from this photo the height is pretty wild.


  7. #7
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Hiya Geoffro,
    have you put a straight edge along your neck to check the truss rod adjustment?
    A fret level and re-crown will help but you need to get the neck adjusted flat first.
    You can pick up a notched straight edge from StewMac or the PBG shop, or you can get some aluminium bar from a hardware store and make your own, Robin describes making one here
    https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...647#post180647

    Once you’ve done that, then you can check the frets themselves, some necks need just a tickle, others some hefty redressing.

    Sometimes you may also need to adjust the nut, but again this should be looked at after you’ve trued up the neck and done the fret job.

    hope that helps
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  8. #8
    Thanks FrankenWashie. You were spot on there is some backbow. So I need to loosen the truss rod (counter clockwise) in quarter turn increments?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by geoffro View Post
    Thanks FrankenWashie. You were spot on there is some backbow. So I need to loosen the truss rod (counter clockwise) in quarter turn increments?
    Yep and check after giving each turn a chance to settle

  10. #10
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Give it some time with the strings at tension as well, the first couple of weeks the neck may move a lot until it all settles in.
    My ST took a couple of months to settle, and I have a heel end adjuster in it, so the neck has to come off, at least you’ve a head end adjuster!
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


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