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Thread: The Deluxester Prototype - Sonic's foray into repeatable scratch builds

  1. #481
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Oooooohhkay. So this is still happening and undergone another permutation. Neck has been revised to have a standard F style heel to open up some more after market options. I'm going to build two at a time here so I can update the Step Guitar and make it a full scratch build. That one will be my work horse and this one, all things going well, will hopefully go up for sale if I'm happy enough with it.

    A few evolutions, this will have a strat style bridge and trem, mostly to see if I can do it. Shape has been offset, because that's what I like. I'm also going to have a go at some block style inlays which should be interesting.

    I have found a very affordable laser cutter guy about 3 blocks from me and we are going to collaborate on a few projects as his vector art skills aren't as good as mine. This is going to be very helpful for cutting variations on this theme.

    This will be a pretty slow build as I'm pretty time poor at the moment, but I'd like to have it done by the end of the year. Will see how we go I suppose.



    Couple of mockup ideas, probably leaning towards SFG and white pickguard.

    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  2. #482
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    Oooooohhkay. So this is still happening and undergone another permutation. Neck has been revised to have a standard F style heel to open up some more after market options. I'm going to build two at a time here so I can update the Step Guitar and make it a full scratch build. That one will be my work horse and this one, all things going well, will hopefully go up for sale if I'm happy enough with it.

    A few evolutions, this will have a strat style bridge and trem, mostly to see if I can do it. Shape has been offset, because that's what I like. I'm also going to have a go at some block style inlays which should be interesting.

    I have found a very affordable laser cutter guy about 3 blocks from me and we are going to collaborate on a few projects as his vector art skills aren't as good as mine. This is going to be very helpful for cutting variations on this theme.

    This will be a pretty slow build as I'm pretty time poor at the moment, but I'd like to have it done by the end of the year. Will see how we go I suppose.



    Couple of mockup ideas, probably leaning towards SFG and white pickguard.

    When you get your template set to your satisfaction, you need to PM me the price and your details. I want to build one. So does Igor, I meanů tho doeth Ig0r.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  3. #483
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    Sonic, Looks amazing again!

    Blue or green, and of course offset, super cool looks.
    Looking forward to seeing this one coming to life!

  4. #484
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Cheers Rolf, yeah I agree. I'm considering making a wood 'sandwich' with a dark midline through the body and leaving the back natural but I'll see how I go. I'll probably get started on the necks first.

    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    When you get your template set to your satisfaction, you need to PM me the price and your details. I want to build one. So does Igor, I meanů tho doeth Ig0r.
    Yeah cool. These were $49 to get cut so pretty affordable. Lets see if I have accounted for everything, the previous build required a fair bit of adjustment to how it fit together to work properly.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  5. #485
    Member ILRGuitars's Avatar
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    Love the gold with black guard. I think non standard colours would br a good selling point.

  6. #486
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Yeah, I've been threatening to do a big flake sparkle finish for a while. Might be a good candidate...
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  7. #487
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Love it. The SFG with white, or black with tortoise shell are my picks.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  8. #488
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    One thing I'm struggling with is the control layout. The selector switch right by the volume and tone knobs will put a lot of people off as it will get in the way, especially if you are someone who uses the volume knob a lot. You'll have to stretch back with your little finger to reach it if you don't like taking your hand off the bridge, and the pickup selector will definitely get in the way.

    You'll never please everyone with any layout, but if you are going commercial with this, then you want it to be acceptable to say 90% of people.

    If you are running with a 2-post trem, then I'd consider rejigging the rear trem cavity cut-out a bit (if you can), so the post hole runs through the full body depth as much as possible. The standard shape is fine (and designed)for a 6-screw fixing, but the holes for 2-post bridges with inserts come up to 1mm or so of the rear of rout in places. I've seen commercial installations where you can even see the bottom of the insert poking through!

    I know this crack below was mainly due to me not supporting the rear of the rout when knocking the posts in, but had the wood been thicker around the full area of the posts, I'm sure it wouldn't have happened.



    As the springs attach to the top of the trem block, you could at least think about leaving that area between the posts a few mm thicker, but still have enough depth to clear the springs. And make the rout width a bit less so the springs just clear the sides, rather than have a few mm spare either side. Definitely a bit more space than required at the sides here:



    That would all go to making that post hole area stronger.

  9. #489
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Hey Simon,

    Yeah I know the controls will annoy some people, but my goal is to get them as far out of the way as possible as I am notorious for playing too enthusiastically and bumping them (Although I am working on this).

    There is flexibility with the switch placement, and I see what you mean. Personally, I'd probably go for a pickup change rather than fiddling knobs on the fly. The core of these projects is to build the guitars I want to play, and if others like them as well, then that is a bonus. I'd like to sell some, but I'm not under any illusions as to the profitability or commercial viability of being a boutique guitar builder. It's a crowded space, especially these days. It'll be a 6 screw trem as I have a spare Babicz one here, but noted, I do like the two point ones setup as a float, so I'll bear that in mind if I build one like that.

    Cheers.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  10. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    If you are running with a 2-post trem, then I'd consider rejigging the rear trem cavity cut-out a bit (if you can), so the post hole runs through the full body depth as much as possible. The standard shape is fine (and designed)for a 6-screw fixing, but the holes for 2-post bridges with inserts come up to 1mm or so of the rear of rout in places. I've seen commercial installations where you can even see the bottom of the insert poking through!

    I know this crack below was mainly due to me not supporting the rear of the rout when knocking the posts in, but had the wood been thicker around the full area of the posts, I'm sure it wouldn't have happened.
    Yeah, the posts for my Babicz 2 point trem in my (still going - realized I've got more shaping to do) GST-1 are visible from the rear trem cavity. And the nominated drill sizes for the holes for the inserts aren't ideal. I'll be sticking mine in the freezer for a few hours before knocking them in (as well as supporting them directly behind the inserts).

    Phil, obviously, if you're wanting to have a look, just let me know.

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