First Build - AES-1 AHAHAHAHA

[Scramblermatt]

Hi all,

So this is my first ever guitar build and it’s safe to say that I’m a COMPLETE NOVICE!!!!!

I’ve ordered a AES-1 kit which has cleared customs now so thought I’d start my diary in anticipation on it arriving hopefully later this week.

I’m planning on staining the guitar in a cherry sunburst finish so any tips/advice/in-depth instructions on how to do that would be much appreciated!

I also will be swapping much of the hardware as I go for upgrades but we can go into that more as I progress!

So really right now I was hoping for any hints/tips/things to look out for from you guys? I’ll be asking a lot of questions so please be patient with me and I apologise in advance for if it gets too much!

I run a music school in Surrey and play in a few bands so am really hoping I end up with a guitar I can use on a regular basis!

Anyway, thanks chaps and I can’t wait to get started!

Matt

[McCreed]

Welcome Matt. (sorry for the pun )

If you take your time, read lots, ask lots... there's no reason you can't end up with a very playable "working" guitar.

There'll be plenty of experience here to draw on, from plenty of folk willing to share it.

You'll be surprised how soon into your first build, you find yourself planning the next! It's a disease I tells ya!

Cheers,
Mick

[Scramblermatt]

Thanks Mick! I can't wait to get started now and I'm sure you're right that I'll be planning the next one in no time!

[Simon Barden]

Here is my normal UK luthier and parts suppliers list

https://www.rothkoandfrost.com/
https://tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/
https://www.chrisalsopguitar.co.uk/shop/
https://www.northwestguitars.co.uk/
https://www.allparts.uk.com/
https://www.wdmusic.co.uk/

As the kit has binding, I'd go for a water-based stain, as spirit/alcohol-based stains get into all the thin pressure cracks in the binding and can't be removed, whereas water based stains don't penetrate the cracks and sit on the surface and can be removed with a light scrape with a sharp blade.

[Scramblermatt]

Amazing thanks Simon! And thanks for the advice that's super helpful to know!!!

The kit is being delivered tomorrow so can't wait now!

[Scramblermatt]

So here it is! Only had a brief look as I had meetings this afternoon but the flame maple looks great!

[Simon Barden]

Yes, it does look good.

First thing to check for are glue spots. So use some turps. meths or white spirit to wet the wood. Any areas with glue on will show up lighter as it stops the liquid being absorbed - as it will also stop any stain being absorbed.

If there are any spots, these will normally be around the edges and along the veneer join line in the middle. A proprietary glue remover and a toothbrush will normally do the removal trick.

[Scramblermatt]

Ah great thanks! So that’s the first step? I’ve looked at PBG instructions and they say to do a mock build and then it sort of launches into scale lengths and all sorts so not sure where to start at the moment!

Will have a proper look tomorrow and take closer pics!

[Simon Barden]

It's not the easiest of guitars to do a mock build on. Don't fit anything permanently to start with. just wrap tape around bridge posts so they stay in the holes, don't fit the inserts yet.

I'd also wait a week or so before doing too much fitting. When I got my ES-3, it took that long for the wood to settle down and the neck to fit in the pocket. remember it's come from 40°C heat via a jet to sit in an unheated PO warehouse with who knows what in the way of temperature and humidity changes on the way.

[Scramblermatt]

That’s a good point!

In terms of the glue spots and body in general...do I sand it before applying the stain? I’ve seen numerous posts about sanding and sanding and sanding but then warnings about the veneer being incredibly thin and not to sand?!?!

Is it better to sand the glue spots off or use your tooth brush trick?