#3rd Custom GR-1SF ‘Annylonation’.

[kuanjb]

I initially preferred the straight but the curvy one matches the tail piece better. Hard choice. I'm guessing those are just templates right? Are you going black or wood?

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[DarkMark]

Match the curves or match the straight angular lines? Life’s full of big decisions. I had three serial sections of rosewood veneer which I’ll use the last of. Fingers crossed I’ll be able to match up the grain once again as I’ve done with the rest of the headstock.

[blinddrew]

Just to help, I'm going to disagree, curved for me!

[Simon Barden]

Just to help, I'm going to disagree, curved for me!

Beware, this man plays the banjo.

[DarkMark]

Fret level done.
Is one coat of satin wipe on poly enough for a fret board?

[Fretworn]

Truss rod cover. Straight or curved. They both look good to me so I might do both at the same time and see which turns out the best/most practical. Before any says yellow would make a lovely contrast, I will use rosewood, with brief consideration for mahogany stained maple.

I feel straight matches the headstock.

[Simon Barden]

Is one coat of satin wipe on poly enough for a fret board?

As your fretboard looks to be rosewood or figured ebony, I wouldn't put any poly on it at all, just lemon oil.

[DarkMark]

As your fretboard looks to be rosewood or figured ebony, I wouldn't put any poly on it at all, just lemon oil.

Oops! Any reason for this advice? I guess it’s not too late to sand off.

And thanks for the truss rod opinions.

[Simon Barden]

There's simply no need for it. Guitars with rosewood and ebony fretboards have been going without any protective coating on them for hundreds of years.

As with most things, you can go against the grain if you want. Rickenbacker are probably the most well-known company for often lacquering over rosewood/bubinga fingerboards. But Gibson, Fender, PRS, Yamaha. Martin etc. don't do it.

If you want to lacquer it for feel, then go ahead, but you don't need to do it for protection. A rub with lemon oil every 6 months puts back moisture lost and helps clean the board.

JimC and I will be treating out manufactured 'rosewood' boards with a thin epoxy stabiliser as the wood fibres aren't stuck together very well and bits fall off them; so they'll feel more like a lacquered board after that. But it's not something I'd do otherwise.

[DarkMark]

Since I’ve put a coat on I think I’ll leave it rather than make a mess of it taking it off.