#3rd Custom GR-1SF ‘Annylonation’.

[DarkMark]

And the photo which didn’t attach to the last post.

[Simon Barden]

Looking good.

[blinddrew]

That is going to be a fine thing.

[DarkMark]

Thanks for comments folks and opinions on truss rod. I’ve taken Simon’s advice and added a backing to the truss rods, a thin piece of brass hinge which I’ll never need.
Relived to test the neck break angle to find it is about exactly where I wanted it to line up with the floating bridge after all the adjustments I made. Thank goodness for that.

[Simon Barden]

That's good news. It will be a happy new year for you after all!

[DarkMark]

I’ve found this soft spot on the side of the body. It gives a little when I press on it. The cracks were filled with poly previously but seem to have reappeared. I don’t really think I can do anything about it.

[Simon Barden]

That's a right PITA! Hard to do much about it without taking it down to the wood again. But it's ply sided, so structurally it should still be strong. Possibly movement due to the really hot weather. Might be worth just waiting a few months until it cools down a bit, then sand back a bit and apply more poly over the top.

[DarkMark]

I think a layer in the ply is separating and if I go back down to wood I would probably end up sanding through the layer and cause other problems. Not 100% sure. PITA alright.

[JimC]

I think a layer in the ply is separating and if I go back down to wood I would probably end up sanding through the layer and cause other problems. Not 100% sure. PITA alright.

Traditional cures for delam ply include injecting epoxy resin with a hypodermic. Much more difficult than it sounds due to viscosity. Feel for you, I think pragmatically all I would do for now is monitor the situation.

[Simon Barden]

You might manage to inject with thin CA, but it's likely to run out and make a real mess, and you'd still need to find a good method of clamping it flat. You could make a complete outer mould to do so, but that's a lot of work.