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Thread: Bridge hole spacing ES-1L

  1. #1

    Bridge hole spacing ES-1L

    Hi all,

    Looking to replace the TOM bridge in my ES-1L as the retaining wire and screws are buzzing (temp fix with nail polish on the screws) and the saddles move everywhere. I have upgraded literally every other piece of hardware so this is the last thing to upgrade.

    Unfortunately the pole hole spacing is 72mm center to center, where 99.99% of TOM bridges are now 74mm. Has anyone found a quality replacement that fits the pitbull? It is completely finished I dont want to be widening holes at this stage!

    Cheers.

  2. #2
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Bit pricey but these ones have adjustable spacing.

    https://www.realparts.com.au/bridges...ic-chrome.html
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    Bit pricey but these ones have adjustable spacing.

    https://www.realparts.com.au/bridges...ic-chrome.html
    Ouch!!.

    Looking at that, what would prevent you from getting out the Dremel and creating your own adjustable post holes?

    cheers, Mark.

  4. #4
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    ABM make good gear but it is very expensive. What about trying new saddles? It's the poorly fitting alloy saddles that are the real problem. You might need to get a complete TOM bridge and remove the saddles.

  5. #5
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by king casey View Post
    Ouch!!.

    Looking at that, what would prevent you from getting out the Dremel and creating your own adjustable post holes?

    cheers, Mark.
    You'd also have to drill and tap for some grub screws to locate it, but it's not out side the realm of doable. There are a lot of decently priced roller bridges that it wouldn't be too scary to modify.

    All of my kit TOM bridges are pretty rattly. The black one on the Victory build is the least rattly, but I suspect the black coating is helping to damp it.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    You'd also have to drill and tap for some grub screws to locate it, but it's not out side the realm of doable. There are a lot of decently priced roller bridges that it wouldn't be too scary to modify.
    I've done that with my JM-1 kit...twice, in order to get it correct.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    All of my kit TOM bridges are pretty rattly. The black one on the Victory build is the least rattly, but I suspect the black coating is helping to damp it.
    Maybe take some 'clear acrylic' to the chrome bridges?

    cheers, Mark.

  7. #7
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Eh, to be honest I'm thinking of flicking those guitars anyway to free up some room, but that could work.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  8. #8
    Unfortunately I was trying to get a wider bridge so there is more room for intonation, the high e is as far forward as it can go and still needs to go a little bit further.

    I've remeasured and it could be liberally measured at 73mm, I've seen some 73.9mm spacing so I wonder if those could work. I don't really want to spend money on a bridge that doesn't fit, I wonder if they do refunds?

  9. #9
    Mentor vh2580's Avatar
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    Have always replaced the standard kit bridge with Gotoh bridges and have never had an issue, can be a touch tight to get on but makes them more rigid (fit them with posts threaded up and take them down in height no probs). Use the supplied body ferrules(as most other brands are smaller diameter) and use the gotoh posts as they screw straight in.
    Tony

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by vh2580 View Post
    Have always replaced the standard kit bridge with Gotoh bridges and have never had an issue, can be a touch tight to get on but makes them more rigid (fit them with posts threaded up and take them down in height no probs). Use the supplied body ferrules(as most other brands are smaller diameter) and use the gotoh posts as they screw straight in.
    Thanks a lot mate, I'm gonna order a Gotoh bridge and worst case scenario ill have to dremel out the post hole a little bit.

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