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Thread: how to put in active pickups on the jk-1

  1. #1

    how to put in active pickups on the jk-1

    i was thinking about puting in active pickups like emg's any advice (sorry for my horrible spelling)

  2. #2
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    I did it with an EXA-1, you need to be able to hide the battery somewhere. I used an StewMac battery box and routed a cavity for it below the jack point.
    https://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_...ttery_Box.html

    it’s pretty easy especially if you get EMGs as the Boxed signature sets usually come with plug and play controls and a pcb to direct power and signal. The hardest part is routing the battery box recess, but you can get around that if you have a big enough control cavity to allow for the battery.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  3. #3
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    1+ on using a battery box. You'll need to route out a small cavity near the existing control cavity. The cavity on a JK-1 looks too small to hide a battery. Also, it's good to be able to change the battery without taking out the control cavity screws. I put a battery box in my G&L partly because of that inconvenience...

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  4. #4
    Overlord of Music dave.king1's Avatar
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    Maybe using 2 core shielded cable for your lead with a remote battery in a breakout box at the amp end could be your answer.

    Tip and sleeve for signal, ring and sleeve for battery.

  5. #5
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Note that a lot of the EMG wiring kits are set up for two volume & two tone controls. With the pre-wired connectors, I don't know how easy it would be to adapt them for one volume & one tone control. I'd contact EMG and ask them what parts you'd need.

    All the existing wiring goes as you'll need a TRS jack socket and 25k pots. If you are spending that much money, then you'll want to upgrade the stock kit selector switch. As has been said you'll need a battery and somewhere to put it. Which means some routing and if you are doing that, then I'd suggest enlarging the control cavity to give you room for a battery and also at least one extra control (I'd move the selector switch position) as it seems a shame not to make use of some of the EMG options like a boost control.

    You may well need to enlarge the pickup cable access holes to fit the pre-wired connectors through. The bridge pickup access hole needs to accommodate two flat connectors through it. so will almost certainly need enlargement.

  6. #6
    wow this is more complicated than i thought but thanks anyways

  7. #7
    Mentor vh2580's Avatar
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    Not that complicated and super quick, EMG provide comprehensive connection diagrams usually with several options like 2v 2t, 1v 1t, 2v 1T etc.
    Have attached a link as an example the Het Set diagragms.
    http://www.emgpickups.com/media/prod...230-0210rb.pdf
    Tony

  8. #8
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I feel it was easier back when you could make normal solder connections with EMGs.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    I feel it was easier back when you could make normal solder connections with EMGs.
    It might seem like that, but actually it is really easy and gives the option to try things without a lot of work (or tidy up if you messed something up).
    The only biggie is the battery. If you choose to put it in the control cavity you should make sure it doesn't fly around messing up the wires.

    I changed my EMG from (old and badly) soldered pots to solderless some years ago and as I recall it wasn't big of a deal.

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