Mark's LPM-1E

[Bakersdozen]

Sounds great BD, particularly the neck PUP done dirty. It really has that Slash tone.

Cheers, Waz

Thanks Man. Obviously from the outset, this was always a hommage to the cat in the hat. I'm calling it mission accomplished

[JoelDee]

Hi BD,

Currently building an LP as well and was recommended the FW as a good stain option, its my first build and the maple veneer has got me worried (read many horror stories) about how to apply and what to use.

Your finish on the front is exactly the colour I'm going for so was hoping I could pick your brain on a few things?

What did you use to apply the stain?
Did you use the Prooftint interior stain?
Did you dilute the stain at all? If so, what with?

Sorry to hassle! Thanks.

[Bakersdozen]

Hi BD,

Currently building an LP as well and was recommended the FW as a good stain option, its my first build and the maple veneer has got me worried (read many horror stories) about how to apply and what to use.

Your finish on the front is exactly the colour I'm going for so was hoping I could pick your brain on a few things?

What did you use to apply the stain?
Did you use the Prooftint interior stain?
Did you dilute the stain at all? If so, what with?

Sorry to hassle! Thanks.

Hey Joel!

Never a hassle at all mate. It's what we are here for

I used a rag to apply the FW Golden Teak Prooftint stain. Obviously with gloves on (pro tip: that stuff don't come off your skin easily). I found it handy to have a spray bottle of isopropyl alcohol handy, so I could spray the rag and the stain was able to shift a little if needed. If an area was too dark etc. you could get it to thin out and shift slightly with the iso. Or you could spray a tiny bit directly on the stained area to help spread it a little.

I never needed to dilute the stain directly prior to application. I did experiment extensively with some flamed maple veneer for what worked and what didn't. The method that worked for me was that I stained the guitar first and let it dry. Then applied a thin coat of FW sanding sealer. After that was dry I gave a light sand with 400 and wiped the dust clean with gum turps. Then it was ready for the clear topacoat.

I found this was contrary to the directions of the sanding sealer, as it recommends to use it as the first step. This is where testing different regimens on scrap really pays off.

If you PM me your address I'll chuck a piece of veneer in the post for you to experiment with if you like. It will help you feel more confident when it comes to crunch time too.

Ask any questions you want and we will be sure to answer you in your build diary.

Good luck, have fun and remember no need to rush. Also remember that any mistake can usually be fixed.

[rokitrik]

Your guitar looks great. This is just the finish style I want on my TL-1 so I will be following closely. Thanks!