Not sure. It doesn’t say finishing on it but says compound. Not sure where to go from here though.
Not sure. It doesn’t say finishing on it but says compound. Not sure where to go from here though.
I’ll have to google and have a look at the product description, but I think it’s a finishing rather than a cutting product. You won’t hurt anything using a cut compound now and then going back to this. You are fairly unlikely to polish through the clear by hand, assuming you have decent coverage. The surface looks pretty reasonable so you are only needing to take out the finer scratches. You’d probably get away with a cut and polish like Kitten No.2 ( but there are loads of different brands that are similar products)
I’ll look up ultimate when I get on my main computer for work.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
Ok yes, Ultimate Compound is a cutting compound. So with a lot more elbow grease it should work fine. Those buffing pads you have are great, I use them in the final stages usually. As I mentioned before you really don't want to use any pressure, just the weight of your hand resting on the pad and a moving circular motion where possible. The pad and compound will do the work, if you push down you are likely adding abrasion from the pad (even though they are really soft).
You could potentially speed the process up by going back a step in the cutting grade, but there is nothing wrong with just persevering. I normally use a machine buffer and only do the final buff by hand which speeds things up a lot.
For future reference in this thread I have my current buffing setup, compound/polish/scratch X and a buffing machine. You can see the results pretty well, black is a bugger to get swirl free. There are better options for the buffer, I know Phrozin has a really neat smaller one with interchangeable foam pads which is better than my cheapy.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...?t=9001&page=4
Last edited by Sonic Mountain; 23-02-2019 at 01:28 PM.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
Thanks SC. I’ll just have to give it more time by the sounds of it. I was using circular motions where possible but probably pressing too hard so will back off in the pressure and give it more time for the compound to do its thing and see how I go. Hopefully I’m able to correct any scratches I may have introduced. The guy I bought the compound from said there was no need for scratch x but it seems a lot of people use it at the end so not sure if I should buy that as well. Also a lot of talk around it containing silicon?
Wow that black came out nice! People on here do awesome finishes!
Yep goodo. I think with a bit of patience and correct technique it will come up fine. It is a heck of a lot of work by hand, so don't get discouraged.
I like scratch X but it is definitely different to other polishing compounds. I would just keep going with the Ultimate for now and see.
Not sure regarding the silicone, can't see anything on the packet. It seems strange, as silicone is a right pain in the arse if you ever need to respray, it's very difficult to clean off entirely and paint refuses to stick if there is any residue. So in an automotive setting, I can see people wanting to steer clear if that is the case.
I haven't had any issues, but I also haven't repainted anything I've polished with it.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
Yeah I think I did the first attempt too quickly as I was so stressed about taking too much clear coat off but I guess that what the first build is all about.....learning.
I’ll work on it tonight or tomorrow and just see how it goes.
Yeah I saw something about it being the new scratch x (maybe 2.0) compared to the old formulae. Hard to know as there is so much out in the web it’s hard to know what to follow.
Thanks for your help...until I hit the next hurdle 😊
Hi a_novice, I’m currently using that Ultimate Compound on wipe on poly using cheap eBay sponge pads with a base that attaches to a drill. It’s come up like glass without a swirly mark to be seen. Paint maybe a different story, I simply don’t know.
Bear in mind that once this guitar becomes the 'hard-to-put-down' instrument, the paint will start narrating a story.
Fender has a department that specialises in accelerating this appearance.
cheers, Mark.