First Ever Build - SV1

[FrankenWashie]

Not keen in the yellowing but if it’s 10 plus yrlears then not fussed. Silly question but do you need to do anything to the fretboard (finish wise) as it seems pretty good already.

For the rosewood, you generally leave it and then after the rest of the finishing is done pop some lemon oil on it and buff it back, then re-oil when it starts to look dry as maintenance. You can also use fretboard wax over the top of it.

For the maple boards they typically get some truoil or what ever finish you use on top.

EDIT: My Fretboard started off like yours, but i couldn't deal with the florid inlay and the pearloid scratchplate, so I stripped the original board off, made my own from ebony and added the MOP basic fretmarkers. I scuffed the scratchplate then blacked it out to contrast the PE logo. It was a lot of work but the paint was worse!

[a_novice]

Cool thanks for that. Can be confusing as everyone has their own methods they swear by.

Well it turned out awesome.

[Bakersdozen]

For the rosewood, you generally leave it and then after the rest of the finishing is done pop some lemon oil on it and buff it back, then re-oil when it starts to look dry as maintenance. You can also use fretboard wax over the top of it.

Hey FW, do you mean wax over the top of lemon oil or instead of? Is there any particular lemon oil that's recommended? Is lemon oil also good for ebony fretboards?

[FrankenWashie]

Hey FW, do you mean wax over the top of lemon oil or instead of? Is there any particular lemon oil that's recommended? Is lemon oil also good for ebony fretboards?

I use the lemon oil on both Rosewood and ebony, no problems in the last 20 years. I know some also use a fretboard was, instead of and over the top of, but I have never felt the need to do this.

[Simon Barden]

I'm the same as Frankie with using lemon oil.

[Bakersdozen]

I'm the same as Frankie with using lemon oil.

Any particular brand?

[Simon Barden]

I use the Jim Dunlop 65 stuff.

It basically helps stop the board from drying out too much and shrinking, which can leave the fret ends poking out or the frets becoming loose. It's also not a bad fretboard cleaner. new boards always seem very dry, so they can normally absorb several applications. Once the board stops taking up the oil, wipe off the excess (you don't want an oily feeling board) and you're done. Worth applying again every 6 months or so in a hot and mainly dry climate. Maybe every year in a more temperate climate like the UK.

[a_novice]

Ok, finally finished the colour on the body and now just have a final coat of colour to do in the headstock. Time to start thinking of the clear coat and how to tackle my first wet sand!

Still thinking through adding a decal and the best way to do that. Once I get all of that sorted I can think about the tru oil for the neck.

Slowly does it but really happy with the results so far.

[FrankenWashie]

Ok, finally finished the colour on the body and now just have a final coat of colour to do in the headstock. Time to start thinking of the clear coat and how to tackle my first wet sand!

Still thinking through adding a decal and the best way to do that, either an Ibanez logo or my own. Once I get all of that sorted I can think about the tru oil for the neck.

Slowly does it but really happy with the results so far.

Don't do proprietary logos, it will mean your build is ineligible for GOTM, it may also result in any photos of your headstock being pulled as it is potentially Copyright Infringement.

You can design a simple logo in Inkscape or Adobe and then get that printed for you by a service, or buy some inkjet or laser jet waterslide decal paper and print it off at home to apply to the guitar.

[a_novice]

Yeah just realised so edited my post. Was looking at the paper to print my own design and hoping the acrylic clear SCA spray doesn’t eat it. Will be hard to design something as simple and cool as the Ibanez tick.