Trev's 1st Build - TLA-1

[Trevor Molloy]

Hi everyone!

First post for me but I have been watching the forums for some time before finally pulling the trigger on a kit.
Really looking forward to getting my first build under my belt.

TLA-1 kit has arrived and finally on the work bench.
Adam at Pitbill was great with the communication even over the holiday break!




When I tested the neck fit I noticed there is a gap on the bass side.

Any advice on correcting this would be greatly appreciated, It seems that I could take a bit off the heel but I thought it would be best that I reach out to the experts first incase a make a right mess of it haha!



Not sure what finish I will go for yet, was originally going for some sort of stain but am now a little unsure given the obvious joins.
Will have to go on a forum scroll for some inspiration.

[FrankenWashie]

Hi Trev,

best to establish your center line down the body first, then see how the neck aligns with that before you decide whether it’s pocket or neck heel that needs some adjusting.

its a nice looking kit, best of luck with it. If you get stuck sing out and the forum Gurus will leap into action for you.

[Trevor Molloy]

Thanks for the reply FrankenWashie!

So given that I don't know if its the neck heel or the pocket, would I be better to base my center line off the pickup routes rather than using a center line from the neck?

[FrankenWashie]

Thanks for the reply FrankenWashie!

So given that I don't know if its the neck heel or the pocket, would I be better to base my center line off the pickup routes rather than using a center line from the neck?

Take a theoretical line between two points on the front of the body from the upper bout across to the lower bout (behind the bridge Pup rout and probably on the thin strip in front of the neck pup rout).
Lay some masking tap down along those lines and then measure the distance from top to bottom of the body along those lines.
The mid point of those lines i.e. the length divided by two, should be the mid point of your body, mark the mid points on the two lines and then join them up, that should be your centre line.
This should give you an idea of how close to centre the neck pocket is.

Hope this helps!

[FrankenWashie]

a picture is worth a thousand words, see below

[Simon Barden]

Try the scratchplate on to see if it hides the gap. If it does, then it's up to you as to whether you want to shape the heel so there's a better fit.

[BuffaloGhost]

Try the scratchplate on to see if it hides the gap. If it does, then it's up to you as to whether you want to shape the heel so there's a better fit.

being a newbie too I thought I'd ask about this as Im expecting to see something like this on my own kit when it comes. Would leaving the gap as is. (i.e hiding it with the scratchplate in this instance alter the playability?) What you are saying, if I undertand, is that IF everything is straight. I.e the centre of the neck fretboard is central all the way up with the body of the guitar then the guitar should be ok as is... what about the angle of the neck? i'm assuming that Mr Molloy has pushed this so that the base of the heel is flush with the neck pocket.. (hope I have all these terms correct?)

if it were me i wouldnt want any gaps but what would you do to get rid of the gap and still not ruin the way the neck fits centrally to the body... ?
thanks

[Simon Barden]

The way the neck sits in the pocket will determine the centreline that the bridge will need to refer to, so it is important that the centreline of the pickup routs matches the centreline of the neck by within a mm or so. Whilst you can move the bridge about a bit, you can't move it side to side that much as the bridge plate only just covers the bridge pickup rout at the sides; you don't want a hold showing.

However it's the sides of the neck pocket and the sides of the neck heel that will really determine how well the neck points down the centreline of the body, not the heel shape. It's just nice to have as much of the end of the heel in contact with the body as possible for string vibration transfer.

I modified the end of a neck of mine to fit the pocket better by just using chalk on the end of the neck pocket, pushing the neck up into the pocket, then seeing where the chalk marks were, as these show the 'high' points. Sand those high points down a bit and repeat the process until you've got chalk marks all over the end of the neck.

Obviously do this before you a) drill any neck mounting screw holes or b) mark the bridge position, as a) will mean that you can't really move the neck so that it sits tight in the pocket and b) the bridge position will now be slightly too far towards the neck than ideal, as the neck will be sitting that bit further into the body after the sanding.

[BuffaloGhost]

The way the neck sits in the pocket will determine the centreline that the bridge will need to refer to, so it is important that the centreline of the pickup routs matches the centreline of the neck by within a mm or so. Whilst you can move the bridge about a bit, you can't move it side to side that much as the bridge plate only just covers the bridge pickup rout at the sides; you don't want a hold showing.

However it's the sides of the neck pocket and the sides of the neck heel that will really determine how well the neck points down the centreline of the body, not the heel shape. It's just nice to have as much of the end of the heel in contact with the body as possible for string vibration transfer.

I modified the end of a neck of mine to fit the pocket better by just using chalk on the end of the neck pocket, pushing the neck up into the pocket, then seeing where the chalk marks were, as these show the 'high' points. Sand those high points down a bit and repeat the process until you've got chalk marks all over the end of the neck.

Obviously do this before you a) drill any neck mounting screw holes or b) mark the bridge position, as a) will mean that you can't really move the neck so that it sits tight in the pocket and b) the bridge position will now be slightly too far towards the neck than ideal, as the neck will be sitting that bit further into the body after the sanding.

Thats all brilliant advice thanks.. Obe waan

[Trevor Molloy]

Wow thanks for the response guys!

FrankenWashie - Will get those lines established tonight, really appreciate the explanation and picture.
Simon - I tested the scratch plate but that still shows a gap. The chalk idea is great will definitely use that method.

Thanks again!