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Thread: GS-1sf 1st build - Cocoa

  1. #71
    Quote Originally Posted by BuffaloGhost View Post
    Thanks. This is what I’d done before when I’ve done flake but I was very Harvey with a clearcoat on this one and I’d never really gone the entire polishing route. Time will tell but it’s sooo flat now I think another clearcoat would sort this out but I was wondering if it could be polished out. Which it can. Just time and patience


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    Think of it as cheap insurance, Just imagine getting your guitar 95% there with the polishing and burn through the clear. Save yourself the heartache

  2. #72
    Member BuffaloGhost's Avatar
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    I'll be doing thinner coats on the actual guitar. i was spraying clear through my .2 tip (used for flake) as it was all I had at the time. I might try another couple of clearcoats on this and see what it looks like..

  3. #73
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    Sanded back and recoated the flake and it’s looking loads better. Starting with stains for the back and sides.




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  4. #74
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    Not happy with the stains from crimson. Think I’m gonna use the work stains as I can spray them. Easier and cleaner.

    In other news I tested the wiring and it was fine first time (get me!!) so I’ve tidied it all up and labelled it.

    I know it looks like I’m grounding to the tail piece. I’m not. It’s going on the bridge. Just drew the thing wrong




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  5. #75
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I'd suggest you look at what that last photo is telling you. You've got a great thick bunch of wires running right along the middle of the F-hole and they'll be very visible. You probably won't want that! You'll need some way of pulling the wires to one side. Maybe by re-doing the tie-wraps around the pickup area and the volume pots you can get it to sit clear of the F-hole.

    Also, whilst you might be able to do it, it's going to be a lot easier to pass the bridge grounding wire into the guitar from the top and down through the hole into the body, rather than try and poke it up via the F-hole access. Or at least pass a thin wire down, solder it to the end of your existing ground wire so that you can then pull it up through the hole. Although it means some in-situ soldering with the pots outside the body, passing the bridge post grounding wire down from the top is a lot easier!

  6. #76
    Member BuffaloGhost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    I'd suggest you look at what that last photo is telling you. You've got a great thick bunch of wires running right along the middle of the F-hole and they'll be very visible. You probably won't want that! You'll need some way of pulling the wires to one side. Maybe by re-doing the tie-wraps around the pickup area and the volume pots you can get it to sit clear of the F-hole.

    Also, whilst you might be able to do it, it's going to be a lot easier to pass the bridge grounding wire into the guitar from the top and down through the hole into the body, rather than try and poke it up via the F-hole access. Or at least pass a thin wire down, solder it to the end of your existing ground wire so that you can then pull it up through the hole. Although it means some in-situ soldering with the pots outside the body, passing the bridge post grounding wire down from the top is a lot easier!
    Thanks for the bridge tip. I shall look into that. I did do a quick test fit and the wires sit differently when the pickups are the right way up. i've left a lot of slack on the pickup end of the wires and I can push it down so the wiring sits away from the F holes.. but thanks for pointing it out.

  7. #77
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Don't forget that when playing it, gravity will pull the cables downwards, despite being able to pull the cables to one side when flat. Just don't want you to have to remove and adjust the wiring after it's installed!

  8. #78
    Member BuffaloGhost's Avatar
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    good point. i shall bear this in mind.. thanks

  9. #79
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    First coats of red sapele stain going on. Jeez it’s hard to hold and stain at the same time. Really uneven at the moment but allowing to dry then some more coats


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  10. #80
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    Sides looking more like it. Added a touch of walnut to tone down the red a little.

    Next stop is to seal it which will show me where I cocked up (I hope not) then I can blow in some darker areas to add a tiny burst and age it all a little.

    The stain was marked the binding somewhat so I’ll need to clean all this prior to the satin clearcoats.

    Pleased so far.


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