TLA-1 First Build

[wazkelly]

Slap it on all over on maple fret boards. Probably no more than 8 coats on the fretboard and you will also need to buy some of those cheap fret guides for when you are doing the final fret polish. It may be a good idea to remove the nut or do a thorough masking tape job. Always best to spend a few more bucks to buy the best masking tape you can afford as the cheap stuff only creates more work in the long run.

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[mcamelo]

Cool. It all makes sense. Glad to hear that TO can be used on the fretboard too. One fewer thing to buy. I've read somewhere that TO will adhere to the frets but I guess that's easy to fix by simply holding the fret polish to last.

[wazkelly]

You will need something like this which can be found in PBG store or on eBay too....https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...ctors-2-piece/


Or if feeling cheap and resourceful you could make your own from some scrap plastic - ice cream container lids or maybe take away food (chinese or indian) container lids. They only need to be wide enough to protect fret board when using 0000 steel wool to polish the frets, or in this case, removing TO from the frets whilst polishing. This is the only job that I will do using steel wool as it is nasty stuff that breaks down into very fine particles....has a habit of finding it's way into places where it is unwanted, think finish, pickups, electrical parts. Best to do neck whilst unattached to body and have a strong mah=gnet on hand to sweep over everything, including workspace to pick up the stray steel wool fibres.

[mcamelo]

Got it. I've actually already have a pair of those laying around the house (came with some other tools I got from ebay long ago).

[Andy40]

Mcamelo, When buiding teles, I usually do a full mock build before Sanding etc. I even play the Tele, there's a thread on my TLA-1R where I did this. Teles are really easy to pull apart and put back together (even if you make it a string through).

What will find is that the scale length on the TL1 will be out by a few mm and you may need to move the bridge rout a bit closer to the neck to do this. This will definitely need to be done if you change the tele bridge to an aftermarket bridge eg ashtray style.

You will also find that there is one wonky tuning peg hole in the headstock. You will need to decide whether you are going to leave it as it is (nothing wrong with that), or be a perfectionist and plug the offending hole and re-drill.

I guess in summary, what ever the parts you are going to use, aftermarket or PBG parts, may require slight modifications on the body and neck, you are better off doing this before you start the sanding process.

Good luck

[mcamelo]

Thanks Andy.

Yes I will definitely do a full build and play it for a couple of days so I can have a good feel for everything that needs work before starting on the sanding and finish (I think that will also help alleviate the extreme anxiety that I am sure will descend upon my 8 yo).

I'm hoping it won't require extra rerouting or redrilling but I am going for as much perfection as I can get with my inexperienced hands.

As for parts, I'll use the grover locking tuners and also an aftermarket bridge (modern style 6 saddle, through body strings).

Can't wait for the kit to arrive.

[mcamelo]

The kit finally arrived. Just in time for Christmas.

All parts seem to have made their way safely home, so we've started the mock build.

I've only managed to bolt the neck so far. The fit was less snug than I hoped but what worried me the most is the fact that the four holes in the back of the body are not a perfect match against the neck plate. I went ahead with the drilling regardless and it looks like that was not a problem. I would love to hear about other people's experience with that.

Looks like I will indeed need to reroute the bride pick up cavity. What would the best way for doing that be? I'm thinking drilling holes around the outline and then using a chisel to carve the wood out. Is there an easier way?

Merry Christmas!

-Marcelo

[Andy40]

by using a plunge router? That's easier. but make sure you check the scale length first with the bridge placement too see how much you need to chisel out

[mcamelo]

Unfortunately, I don't have access to a router, but I'm cautiously confident I can do it with pilot holes and a sharp chisel.

Bridge has been placed and I've just finished the through-body string holes. Unfortunately the drill press won't reach that far into the guitar's body but my improvised vertical drilling gig worked well (basically a 2x4 with a vertical hole clamped against the guitar body). I've got the two E string holes all the way through pretty straight. The other four holes I started from each side and had them meet halfway through. This was the scariest part but I'm quite happy with the result so far.

Next step, routing the bridge pickup cavity.

ll try uploading some photos later.

[Bakersdozen]

Slap it on all over on maple fret boards. Probably no more than 8 coats on the fretboard and you will also need to buy some of those cheap fret guides for when you are doing the final fret polish. It may be a good idea to remove the nut or do a thorough masking tape job. Always best to spend a few more bucks to buy the best masking tape you can afford as the cheap stuff only creates more work in the long run.

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Hi Waz, what do you recommend for getting the maple fretboard to TO stage - sanding wise?