Mark's PRS-1H Buid

[Bakersdozen]

Hi Guys,

I'm Mark from Melbourne. Been lurking on here for a long time and just wanted to reach out (and curb my excitement) to say hi and show you that my replacement PRS-1H kit has arrived. Great customer service and support from Adam and the lads at PBG. Going to to try and host pics through Google Photos, hopefully they show up for everyone.

Would someone be so kind as to chime in and let me know if they can see the pics or not? And I look forward to sharing the updates as they come along with you all.

Will expand further once I can ensure these pictures are working

Cheers!

[kuanjb]

I can't see the pictures. At least through the Tapatalk app.

And nice to see another PRS-1H build.

Sent from my LG-H930 using Tapatalk

[Bakersdozen]

Bugger, thanks mate for letting me know. Was worth a shot. Anyone else able to see?

[king casey]

G'day Mark.

My name is Mark and I also live in Melbourne.
Unfortunately all I see is those grey minus signs.
I've seen it before but didn't get the solution.
I'm sure somebody who knows will chime in shortly.

cheers, Mark.

[Bakersdozen]

All good, thanks for trying. Just wanted to see if that method would work as it's easiest for me. Looks like I was the only one who could see them because I was still logged into my account. Anyway moving on, here are the pictures uploaded the old-fashioned way

[Bakersdozen]

So my plan for this is to go the Nullarbor Ochre DT as I love the colour of that finish. There are a few PRS semi hollows that have similar colour too. I will use this on the front, back, sides and front of the headstock. Leave the bindings exposed as accents and a natural finish on the neck using neck top coat. Will also paint inside the f holes black to give some depth and match the pup mounts and nut. Might also hide some wiring if I use black wires to connect everything.

I was tempted to ebony timbermate to pop the flame veneer, but unsure how it would react with that particular colour of the DT. Would have been a nice touch to have used it as a grain filler too as it would fill a few tiny scratches and some pinholes in the veneer. I'm on the fence on the timbermate.

Another option is to use ink, but again I don't know if it would even pop the flame under that Ochre finish.

Any thoughts? Or anyone done anything similar with DT Nullarbor Ochre?

Cheers!

P.S. here's the DT sample pic...



Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[wazkelly]

The veneers are just so thin that any sanding is too much of a risk, likewise playing around with water based inks too as that can sometimes rehydrate glue holding veneer on thus introducing unwanted problems.

On one flame maple top build I used ink and applied a first coat and immediately tried to wipe off or soak up as much as possible, left to dry overnight to a full day. This helped to fill the natural grain with colour so that when next coat was added grain popping was in the same colour tone.

[Fretworn]

So my plan for this is to go the Nullarbor Ochre DT as I love the colour of that finish. There are a few PRS semi hollows that have similar colour too. I will use this on the front, back, sides and front of the headstock. Leave the bindings exposed as accents and a natural finish on the neck using neck top coat. Will also paint inside the f holes black to give some depth and match the pup mounts and nut. Might also hide some wiring if I use black wires to connect everything.

I was tempted to ebony timbermate to pop the flame veneer, but unsure how it would react with that particular colour of the DT. Would have been a nice touch to have used it as a grain filler too as it would fill a few tiny scratches and some pinholes in the veneer. I'm on the fence on the timbermate.

Another option is to use ink, but again I don't know if it would even pop the flame under that Ochre finish.

Any thoughts? Or anyone done anything similar with DT Nullarbor Ochre?

Cheers!

P.S. here's the DT sample pic...



Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

That is my bass, and that is the effect of straight N.O. on ash. Nothing was used to pop the grain. Ash has large pores and is very thirsty though, the maple veneer may not end up as dramatic.

[Bakersdozen]

That is my bass, and that is the effect of straight N.O. on ash. Nothing was used to pop the grain. Ash has large pores and is very thirsty though, the maple veneer may not end up as dramatic.

That's great to know! Pretty much exactly the info I was after, cheers! Awesome job in that bass by the way.

Anyone out there used N.O. on flame maple veneer by chance?

[Bakersdozen]

Time for a little update..
Sanding complete to 240 grit. Glue spots removed with Goof Off and an old toothbrush.
Major imperfections filled with Maple plastic glue, kept to a minimum and sanded smooth. I know these areas may take the stain differently.



I'm going to have to live with the "machine marks" on the front of the veneer as I can't sand them any further at risk of heading below sea level. I have sanded ever so slightly what I can and need to leave it at that. Hopefully the DT will fill some defecits here...



Next stage is to confirm neck angle and scale length and mark the neck for correct fitment. Then do a final wipe down with Gum Turps before stain commences.

Found a nice little ding in the fretboard, so I will try wet rag and soldering iron trick to hopefully bring that back out.



There is also a pinhole in one of the frets, unsure in how to deal with this yet.