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Thread: OctoberBass RCA-4 First Build

  1. #21
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    I like your optimism, can you match up walnut and maple and make it work?

  2. #22
    Depends what you mean by 'match up'.
    Obviously they are different colours but once again it's up to experimenting to see how it pans out.
    (Personally I'd just try for one piece to cover the whole thing).

    cheers, Mark.

  3. #23
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Yeah, I then would want to continue walnut... yeah. Keep it as simple for what it is.

    Thanks!

  4. #24
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OctoberBassRCA-4 View Post
    Waz, no, stayed with the grain, not across. Not necessarily going for full on Rick. I do want a nice fretboard, but not any darker than what it is. Can this be stained, say towards a Rick? A tad bit red?
    You could stain but that risks also colouring the fret marker inlays. Sounds like fretboard wax is what you need.

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  5. #25
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Was, OK! Overthinking things. Too much downtime.

  6. #26
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I guess with down time I need to address these marks, are these the machine marks? I have sanded these with 120 grit, but it doesn't seems to remove them much. I been sanding from binding to bottom direction.

  7. #27
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Yeah, that's machine marks from a linisher or something. You just need to keep working away at it - being end grain the direction you are sanding isn't as critical (just watch you don't mark up the binding too much) so you can sand with those marks rather than across them if that's easier. Getting the end grains looking nice is a common issue, all I can suggest is patience and gradually working your way up the grits of sandpaper. If you are going a solid colour you don't need them to be completely gone as paint/primer will fill them up pretty well. If you want to stain and clear you just need to keep going at it.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
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  8. #28
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Totally agree with Sonic.
    Those are more horizontal than vertical and come out easier when sanding in the same direction as the machine marks. In this case that is horizontal or parallel to the binding which is good as that is the direction of how you will end up sanding the sides anyway. 120 grit done slow and steady should do the trick and once gone try 180 or maybe 240 but no higher if planning to stain.

    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
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    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
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  9. #29
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Thanks Sonic and Waz. My MM Humbucker came in the mail. Down time just got busy. I'll post a photo of the pup sitting on top.

  10. #30
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    I find that the end grain direction of the seperate pieces don’t always align. Sometimes you need to sand one piece one direction, and then the next piece Change the sanding direction 90 degrees. If you are sanding with the grain the machine marks will sand out. If you sand against the grain you can make them worse.
    Current:
    GTH-1

    Completed:
    AST-1FB
    First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
    ES-5V
    Scratchie lapsteel
    Custom ST-1 12 String
    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Wishing:
    Baritone
    Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck

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