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Thread: OctoberBass RCA-4 First Build

  1. #11
    Don't know about you but this tugs at my OCD.
    With this comparison I'd be hitting the dowels licketty split!
    I've flipped your image to make it a right-hander but you'll get the drift.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    cheers, Mark.

  2. #12
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Say Mark, I see it, but can that be cleanly done without a headstock veneer? I seen them use dowels to fill, but won't you see that afterward? Are there any other builders who've done this that I could see?

  3. #13
    I've done it on my guitars. Veneer is necessary if you want to keep the maple finish.
    Painting it of course means filling the gaps....but not with Timbermate (cheers Phrozin)
    There's always the option of living with it as is.
    cheers, Mark.

  4. #14
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Well now that you pointed it out, it kinda bothers me. It was something I noticed but hadn't considered modifying. Would veneer require shaving down the surface under the veneer? You'd fill the holes, glue down the veneer, then re-drill, huh? I'd have to route the edge after gluing?

  5. #15
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Waz, I may have made my first of many mistakes. Sanding the fretboard. I went with 220 grit between the frets, then 600 between the frets. I've been 0000 steel wool since, trying to smooth out what I may have compromised. The grain looks really dry, but I didn't take large amounts off, just smoothed out the finish that looked like stacked wood to create the fretboard. Am I beyond repair. I think I could buff before sealing, then treat as a normal lemon oil or whatever is decided. What do you think?

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by OctoberBassRCA-4 View Post
    Would veneer require shaving down the surface under the veneer?
    No, the veneer is pretty darn thin and you wouldn't notice once it's glued down.
    Quote Originally Posted by OctoberBassRCA-4 View Post
    I'd have to route the edge after gluing?
    I just trim it within a mm or so and then use sandpaper to finesse the edges.

    cheers, Mark.

  7. #17
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    If you are doing the full Ric lookalike then sealing fretboard with Tru Oil or similar will gradually fill any low points.
    Presume you may have sanded across the grain as that would also be across fretboard and easier to do but also easier to damage the grain too. 0000 steel wool used in a direction up and down the neck might bring it back, if not 1200 or 1500 wet & dry paper used dry should.
    Not hearing many good reports about these fake rosewood fretboards and not sure they do any good using lemon oil or similar. Wax is probably the only option if not sealing like a true Ric.

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  8. #18
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Waz, no, stayed with the grain, not across. Not necessarily going for full on Rick. I do want a nice fretboard, but not any darker than what it is. Can this be stained, say towards a Rick? A tad bit red?

  9. #19
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Mark, if I go this route, could I veneer the walnut wings and maple in the middle? I've never done this before, but what the hell? This seems rather intense.

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by OctoberBassRCA-4 View Post
    Mark, if I go this route, could I veneer the walnut wings and maple in the middle? I've never done this before, but what the hell? This seems rather intense.
    I've only done Fender style headstocks but I can't see why you couldn't experiment.
    If it all goes balls up (which it shouldn't) you can always wood fill and then paint it.

    cheers, Mark.

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