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Thread: OctoberBass RCA-4 First Build

  1. #121
    Mentor JimC's Avatar
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    It doesn't sound safe!

    I wet sanded my instrument with water, but made sure the end grain in holes was sealed, and didn't splash water about much, mainly used it for washing the gunk of the sandpaper frequently. As long as you don't get water under your finish its no hardship to drill the holes again 'cos you put so much varnish/oil/paint on the exposed grain. I'd much rather fill my pickguard holes with lacquer and redrill than wetsand with something flammable.
    Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
    Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
    Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
    Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
    Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
    Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
    Build #7, Mini Midi Bass

  2. #122
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Good idea JimC,
    As my lacquer dries, I just set my Tuner post Ferrules up to check.
    The lacquer build is substantial in the tuner holes of the headstock.
    Will I file the lacquer out, or sand the lac out?, right now, WHEN I go to install them, it's going to be trouble.
    Can a Dremel Tool be used, or a drill bit?

  3. #123
    Mentor JimC's Avatar
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    I would just redrill the holes with the correct size drill.
    Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
    Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
    Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
    Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
    Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
    Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
    Build #7, Mini Midi Bass

  4. #124
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    I would recommend running the drill backwards for any reaming, otherwise you are likely to tear out some wood you don't want to.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  5. #125
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Under Blacklight

    Bit of fun under Blacklight.
    Do all PBG fret inlays react the same?
    My finish under Blacklight shows an awful run on the headstock, I don't see anything like it in normal light.
    Then again, the Squire Strat is a 3 color sunburst, Ha!
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  6. #126
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    A couple more.
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  7. #127
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Finally got the last sanding of 2500 grit wet sand on this build. Ready for polishing. I decided to hand polish this as opposed to using a buffer on a drill or otherwise.
    The reflection off the window shows I got a glass finish, despite the many imperfections of the overall finish. Once polished, I hope she shines. I followed all the YouTube, Pit Bull and too many other suggestions. I guess I included some of the dog hairs in the finish, and the many mistakes of a first time builder. I'd have to (and I will) point these out to those who critique. Otherwise, I'm proud of the finish.

    Onto the wiring. I've posted in Forums under WIRING my desire for 5 knobs. Looking for other RCA-4 Builder's posts concerning their wiring is kind of frustrating, I can't seem to load the search on Forums regarding RCA-4 wiring. I think just the search for RCA-4 is now prohibited due to Copyright issues?
    Last edited by OctoberBassRCA-4; 06-01-2020 at 10:15 AM.

  8. #128
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Copper Shielding

    Hello PBG Forum,
    I made my shielding from a roll of Copper (.003mm thick) from a Craft Store, I had to solder the sides to the bottoms. I included the holes for the cavity wires.

    Will they work? Once I solder wire between them?

    Thanks!
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  9. #129
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    PBG forum,
    No one wants to comment on these formed copper shields? Guess I'll try them anyway.
    My bridge pickup screws are quite LONG! I can see I need to be very careful not to drill through the back of the body.
    I'll tape off my drill bit as a guide where to stop, but that may leave a bit of undrilled wood where the screws will bottom out.
    My concern is that I may round the Philip's heads out trying to drive the last bit.
    Is there a tried, proven method when attempting this?

  10. #130
    I reckon that if you have a copper on the pick-guard that connects the over-hang on each cavity, that will be enough.
    You can always take the long route and wire them (I have done it on my Squier one time).

    cheers, Mark.

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