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Thread: OctoberBass RCA-4 First Build

  1. #111
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Thanks Waz, You've been a big help in my build.
    I'm not familiar with the term "snail tape, but I will Google it.
    I still got about 4-5 more coats of lacquer to go on this build, and the weather here in Tennessee is NOT cooperative or conducive anytime soon, given I have to spray outside (according to the wife).
    On the matter of the MM Pup and split coil, as an aesthetic issue, I want a fifth knob, like the six string Ricks. Can I wire something like a push-pull split coil fifth knob, that would act as a Master Volume? I've expressed this to My Go-to Guy, and he said he'd have to research those set ups.
    Can you give me a idea as to how I could have a functioning fifth knob, either as a split coil, Master Volume, or other option?
    Thanks.

  2. #112
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Waz,
    Actual snail repellent tape, Ha Ha!
    Same as Stew Mac or similar?
    A side note, I do have a Guitar Fettish 4 wire MM Pup, and have not heard it yet.

  3. #113
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    It's the same stuff AFAIK, copper tape, just narrower.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  4. #114
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Yeah Sonic, I'm just thinking ahead to the next process after clear coating, which begs a question?
    Do you finish off a guitar, polished and all, before addressing this shielding, and other issues, I haven't drilled any pickup holes or strap holes yet cause of wet sanding, am I missing something, or do I go ahead and have my perfect finish (sic), then find out I missed something that I should have addressed earlier and screw up the finish?

  5. #115
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    There’s no real right or wrong answer with a lot of guitar building order of operations. There are pros and cons to every approach. I normally leave shielding to after finishing, but I normally drill the most important holes prior and just exercise care when wet sanding. You can totally drill after finishing. Most guys will use painters tape to mark locations and protect the finish when doing that. You kind of just need to pick an approach and go for it, you’ll only really work out what’s best for you by doing. There isn’t much that can’t be fixed if you do stuff up.

  6. #116
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Thanks Sonic.
    I got a lot to go, and finishing the clear coat is the issue now, but I can't continue now due to the weather.
    It leads me to thinking of next steps, to be ready when time allows. I think I'll go ahead and drill for my pickguard screws and pick up ring during the wait. My indecision's get better overtime, along with PBG Communities encouragements.
    I have been thinking of using threaded inserts for my strap knobs, as suggested by a guy. But my test into a sample board, I may have used too small a drill bit, and it caused the wood to bow out, and then tool broke. makes me wonder. They said I need to use a bigger bit. Hmmm... !
    Fortunately, I have time to consider things. I'll try the inserts again in a sample board with a larger bit than suggested, by a 1/64 or 1/32.
    Last edited by OctoberBassRCA-4; 13-12-2019 at 10:35 AM.

  7. #117
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    4 wire Guitar Fettish PUP should give you some easier spilt coil options than what I experienced however would not recommend trying to add a blend type knob as that didn't want to work properly with the Belcat pre-amp on my MMB4 where direct switching worked out much better. Master Volume on a push/pull could work and suggest you wait for someone to drop by and explain how to make that happen with the individual Neck & Bridge Vol controls.

    As for drilling holes, learnt that lesson the hard way on 1st build where wet sanding made the holes swell so on subsequent builds all holes were drilled after final polish was completed.
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  8. #118
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Once again, sound advice Waz!
    Since I did drill my pickguard holes, and neck pickup ring holes, have you ever wet sanded with Naptha instead of water? Naptha evaporates fast, a guy suggested it? Maybe with a drop of soap to help lubricate it a bit?

  9. #119
    Mentor JimC's Avatar
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    Wet sanding with something that evaporates quickly would seem to me to defeat the object of keeping the abrasive unclogged.
    Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
    Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
    Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
    Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
    Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
    Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
    Build #7, Mini Midi Bass

  10. #120
    Member OctoberBassRCA-4's Avatar
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    Can it be done, by spraying Naptha consistently?

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