Looks good Mark - particularly the string spacing without a drill press. There's no way I'd get them that even or straight.
I may have just missed this somewhere, but what do you think made the Cabot's Exterior peel?
Looks good Mark - particularly the string spacing without a drill press. There's no way I'd get them that even or straight.
I may have just missed this somewhere, but what do you think made the Cabot's Exterior peel?
#001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
#002 (WL-1)
#003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
#004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
#005 (LP jr)
#006 (TL-1A)
Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
'The TGS Special'
I’d be happy if I did that well with my drill press!
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
Thanks John and Fretworn.
I used this guide that I cobbled up after a youtube 'how to' video.
I'll have to look it up when I get some time and paste it here.
edit: here it is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SZA03DVITA
The Cabot's was just incompatible with the duplicolor. It just wouldn't bond with it.
I had a similar issue with Ironlak/Feast and Watson wipe-on-poly.
cheers, Mark.
Last edited by king casey; 14-09-2019 at 12:17 PM.
Oeee love the look of that, there is just something about those JM's...
What alterations are you thinking about?
Hi RocknRolf I'm still not happy with the finish over the various acts of surgery...
The re-filled tremolo rout and the filled in Jazzmaster style tremolo rout.
Eventually going to require a better quality bridge i.e.
https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and...er_Bridge.html
Down-side with that though is 'top-load' strings only...and I went to all that trouble doing string-through holes.
cheers, Mark.
Do you really need roller saddles when there's no trem? The reason they are 'roller' is so that the string spacing can be adjusted to your taste. Which may be useful if it's a non-standard width neck, but it all looks fine with the kit bridge, which should be one of the standard string spacings.
The downside with trying to find a hardtail string-through bridge is finding one where the screw and string holes are the same as on your current bridge. Whilst the fixing screw holes can be plugged and redrilled, if there's too big a difference between the string holes and the mounting holes (the string holes will determine the bridge position), the bridge could end up in the wrong place for good intonation adjustment.
Babicz hardtail bridge is string-through. https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...rdtail-chrome/
Dimensions here: http://www.fullcontacthardware.com/f...dtail-original
Hi Simon.
It's the string spacing that I was concerned about.
You probably can't see in the photo, but I've jammed some veneer between low A and low E.
It is actually a Fender knock-off from ebay and I am thinking of 'upgrading'.
As I said though, it's having done the string-through that's put the brake on it.
(and that I don't have the cabbage either).
The overall body finish is also not up to my expectation.
If I did it yet again, there would probably involve a colour change.
cheers, Mark.
Well, first step is to measure the current string spacing and have a look at what's available.
And then you need to decide whether you can face sanding the body back to bare wood again and re-do the finish.