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Thread: First Build (JBA-4M)

  1. #1

    First Build (JBA-4M)

    Received my kit a few weeks back and only now have the time to get stuck into it.
    Question: I have just checked all components and loosely fitted everything together. Do I do the full mock build including screwing the body/neck together & neck alignment by fitting bridge & outside strings etc (as in instruction manual) before sanding or is sanding really the first step before anything else.

    Really looking forward to building this bass but want to do it right.


  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by BrianDee View Post
    Do I do the full mock build including screwing the body/neck together & neck alignment by fitting bridge & outside strings etc.
    Some will do a 'mock' build. I decided to do the full assembly and get it playing well before addressing any 'finish'.
    Don't want to encounter problems with hardware placement on a pristine finish.
    [edit] Made a pig's dinner of the string-through drilling so in my case it was just as well.
    cheers, Mark.

  3. #3
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Perth, WA
    I generally just use clamps at the early stages to hold everything together - touch fiddly, but works for me.

  4. #4
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Ha! I kinda go halfway between Brendan and Mark! I fit the neck and bridge, check the scale length and fit the machine heads as well as the strings to check the action and intonation in a rough way with a bass, but I don't drill the holes for the pickguard and pickups until later to make it easier to polish the finish.
    Then take it all apart and paint it!

  5. #5

    Neck finish

    Cool, thanks guys.
    I'm applying the finish now (using dingotone for both the Body and Neck). Body is Outback Sunset & Neck is the Clear neck finish on a Maple Neck.

    Question I have is: Do you apply the neck finish on the fingerboad side of the neck. i.e. over the frets. I would assume that the fingerboard would need a finish to stop dirt & grease from fingers getting into the wood but can you apply it over the frets and then file it off when doing the leveling/crowning.

  6. #6
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Hi Brian. I do not apply DT on the fretboard. only the back of the neck and headstock. I usually wax the fretboard. but its all personal preference
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed and upgraded
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed | Co-Winner-May 2016 GOTM | Runner up GOTY 2016
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed | Runner up Feb 2017 GOTM
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed | Co-Winner - July 2017 GOTM
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1
    Current Build #12 - ATL1SB

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Shanghai, China
    Hi Brian, I haven't started my build yet but have done a lot of research and asked a lot of the same questions. If you have upgraded the neck to rosewood or ebony then the fingerboard is fine as is. An occasional rub with lemon oil should keep it if fine shape. If you have the stock maple fingerboard you may consider using a sealer and/or something else such as Tru Oil or DT. This is my understanding. If I'm mistaken please let me know.

  8. #8
    Thanks guys for your replies,

    I have chosen to use the Dingotone Neck finish for both the back and front of the neck in this case. I need to do fret work anyway so the crowning process will get rid of any finish on the top of the frets. All of my other guitars are Rosewood fingerboards and this will be my first axe with a maple neck. I have seen other Fender maple neck guitars with gloss finishes on the fingerboard but am after a more satin finish for this build. I appreciate your input. Will post an image once I assemble it.


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