How to check for Glue?

[ozzbike]

I have been looking for an answer for this question:-

"How do I check for glue spots?"

I have read threads that promote the use of a solvent based liquid...turps, metho. I read others that say use only water.

I do note that both schools of thought advocate only a damp wipe.....not a soaking.

I am going to do a spalted veneer build next and I was wondering what is really the suggested way to find glue squeeze out and excess gobs on a veneer top....oh and to find glue around a double bound body.

As per my most recent builds.....a natural finish will be my choice....maybe gloss tru-oil over the top.

And then.....how do I deal with the glue on a very very thin veneer.....down the seam in the middle and inside the edge of binding.

Your ideas, and risks will be gratefully received. Thank You.

[ILRGuitars]

Use some Goof Off to remove the glue, using an old toothbrush, rag, cottonbud, etc, depending on the size and location of the spot. I use metho to find the spots as it evaporates quickly, then mark the spots with a soft pencil so I can rub it out later. Hope it helps.

[blinddrew]

I got good results removing glue smears just using the back of a vinyl knife as a scraper. Meths to highlight them works well.

[Simon Barden]

Water is also a solvent. It will dissolve almost anything (given enough time).

You need to use something liquid just to see what bits of the wood will soak it up and which bits have glue spots which won't. Water will raise the loose fibres in the veneer, which will require sanding down afterwards, whereas the others won't. You may want to use a water based-stain, so you only want to sand once if so.

I think all of them are likely to start dissolving/weakening the PVA glue used to hold the veneer on if you soak the veneer too much, but water probably takes the longest of them to evaporate (so is longer in contact with the glue if it soaks all the way through the veneer). So whatever you use, apply it with a rag, don't pour it onto the guitar body and then spread it around.

[dave.king1]

If you are using Goo Off avoid using an applicator that has any colour in it.

A bit of white cloth I found best.

Red Chux is not a good choice, no need to ask how I discovered this fact

[wazkelly]

A wipe down with a damp white rag using metho is better than water as it evaporates the quickest. Turps seems to leave a slight oil based residue that could be hard for water based stains to penetrate, not so big a problem if using an oil based finish.

Being double bound it is fair chance that there will be a bit lurking on the sides near the violin shaped cut outs and also up towards neck pocket too. In some places it is almost impossible to remove completely and tend to think a natural finish would be best to disguise the stubborn glue spots that refuse to budge.

[ozzbike]

THANKS to you all for the help. I am now really leaning towards a natural finish again....the glue worries me.

Maybe I should buy one and just see what I get.

Thank you one and all for the ideas though.

[TZK321]

I don't intend to paint or stain the veneer on my kit - just apply Tru-Oil. If using only the oil will i still need to remove any glue?

One more question: There are a few different formulations of Goof-Off. Is there one that's highly recommended or one that should be avoided?

[Fretworn]

I don't intend to paint or stain the veneer on my kit - just apply Tru-Oil. If using only the oil will i still need to remove any glue?

One more question: There are a few different formulations of Goof-Off. Is there one that's highly recommended or one that should be avoided?

Yes, the glue will prevent the TruOil penetrating the wood.

[TZK321]

Thanks, Fretworn.

I've purchased the Pro Strength Goof Off. Is this the best one for glue removal? Does it even matter?