Woltz's TLA-1Q

[wazkelly]

Presume binding channel is about 1.5mm to 2mm deep and around 5mm high at 90 degrees to top face of body?
Removal of maple veneer probably removed 1.00mm to 1.5mm thickness from the top.
Proposed rounded edges should take more off the sides in the 90 degree plane and not reduce overall thickness. By adding another layer of veneer on top that requires lots more work and most likely fresh binding to protect edges where it sits on top of sides. Sure it could look schmick but will take more care and patience.

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[Woltz]

Presume binding channel is about 1.5mm to 2mm deep and around 5mm high at 90 degrees to top face of body?
Removal of maple veneer probably removed 1.00mm to 1.5mm thickness from the top.
Proposed rounded edges should take more off the sides in the 90 degree plane and not reduce overall thickness. By adding another layer of veneer on top that requires lots more work and most likely fresh binding to protect edges where it sits on top of sides. Sure it could look schmick but will take more care and patience.

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Ah yep the channel is around 1-1.5 x 5ish now. If I were to do a new top, the pieces of timber I have are actually around 7-8mm thick so not a veneer. I would just have to take some timber off the top of the body first (which would actually remove the binding channel as well). Just not sure what it would look like having a roundover and the join between to timbers without binding.

[wazkelly]

There lies the challenge.
I would use sandpaper to round over as whilst it takes longer you can keep a watchful eye over the progress being made before things have gone too far.
Check out my MMB4 as that had very square edges to begin with.

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[Woltz]

The binding channel to deal with



And the piece of Yaka that I have.

[wazkelly]

Yeah, can understand why you want to use that as a top.
Square edges may look best as side on that will look like an artificial binding.

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[FrankenWashie]

The binding channel to deal with



And the piece of Yaka that I have.

Whoa! That’s a ripper! NSFW wood porn dude.

though if it were me, I would be looking to use the foreground version but reverse the direction of the body, as then the dark grain structure would kind of carry through to the taper of the neck. I may however be totally overthinking that.

[Adam Barnes]

Thats nice

[Woltz]

Whoa! That’s a ripper! NSFW wood porn dude.

though if it were me, I would be looking to use the foreground version but reverse the direction of the body, as then the dark grain structure would kind of carry through to the taper of the neck. I may however be totally overthinking that.

I'm going to use it on my semi-scratch tele build which is going to be a double f thinline with no pickguard. The grain is too good to cover up. But it'll be a tough decision on which orientation to go.

Thats nice

If only my guitar playing was a good as the grain I'd be stoked haha.

[Woltz]

Update time after a long break over christmas and new year. I decided to rebind the guitar, so I ordered some White Pearl binding and got it glued on.



I then sanded it down level with the body and removed the rest of the blue paint as I'd changed my mind about colour.

Then primed it (for like the 3rd time, this build is testing my patience).



I then sprayed the colour but ended up with some hairs in it so rubbed it back and sprayed again.

Here it is after spraying the colour.





I then removed the tape off the binding. This weekend I'll scrape the bindings to clean up a little bit of paint that got on them and then I'll spray the clear (hopefully for the final time, fingers crossed).

[FrankenWashie]

Yeah, we've all been there with finishes. Black is my curse, an EXA-1 where the dingotone didn't behave and a Black LP that sits unfinished in its box. Mocking me.

On the plus side, red guitars play faster!