Woltz's TLA-1Q

[wazkelly]

Looking good.
Suspect you will need to lower the floor of neck pocket. Something I needed to do on both my Tele's as the action was ridiculously high and with strings sitting way above the deck & pickups.

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[Woltz]

Looking good.
Suspect you will need to lower the floor of neck pocket. Something I needed to do on both my Tele's as the action was ridiculously high and with strings sitting way above the deck & pickups.

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Cheers Waz, to be honest I'm not 100% happy with it but I'm a bit of a perfectionist and have decided I need to accept some minor defects on the first build otherwise it'll take me years and cost me a fortune. As far as the neck goes, yeh will see how things look during assembly and make some minor alterations if necessary.

[Woltz]

So I decided to accept the minor defects in the metallic colour coat because I didn't want to repaint again.

So bindings are now scraped.





Another lesson learnt....never again will I freely choose to build a guitar with binding. Pain in the ass and couldn't get it to look as good as I wanted on the top.

Now I'll spray the clear coat when I get a chance. Will just need to run over the body with a tack cloth or something to minimise the surface contaminants.

[wazkelly]

Have to agree with you about binding. Not a big fan and unless well prepped and taped off stain still has a way of getting in where it shouldn't thus magnifying imperfections in the stuff.

[Bakersdozen]

Hey Woltz, what sanding sealer did you happen to use?

[Woltz]

So I'm too much of a perfectionist so I've removed the binding and sanded back to the primer. I'm now tossing up between thicknessing and putting a new top on the guitar (book matched piece of Yaka sitting in my shed) and going solid colour or stain without binding or cut the binding channel to fit the new binding and then stain or solid colour. The dilemma is that I don't have a router or a routing bit for doing binding channels.

Hey Woltz, what sanding sealer did you happen to use?

Hi Bakers, I used Behlens Jet Spray Sanding Sealer and then Behlens Jet Spray Clear Lacquer both aerosol cans. They aren't cheap for a can (especially when you make an error and have to sand it all off haha) but I found they sprayed a lot nicer than the primer and colour aerosols I used from Supercheap when I went to the solid colour.

When I refinish this build for a 3rd time (hopefully for the final time) I'm actually contemplating whether I get a spray gun because I have an air compressor and water trap etc already and a spray gun would give me more control than an aerosol can.

[wazkelly]

I would round over the edges similar to a Strat, as done on the Swampy Tele in my signature.
Looks and feels so much better and allows you to go back to a stain finish.

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[Woltz]

I would round over the edges similar to a Strat, as done on the Swampy Tele in my signature.
Looks and feels so much better and allows you to go back to a stain finish.

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That's what I'm leaning towards Waz. To do that I'll have to thickness the body down and glue on the new top because I think the alternative of routing the roundover to remove the channel would mean quite a large roundover. I'll upload an image of the Yaka tonight.

[wazkelly]

I did mine with 80 & 120 grit sandpaper as you are only taking off the square edges which shouldn't affect the thickness which is usually around 38mm?

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[Woltz]

I did mine with 80 & 120 grit sandpaper as you are only taking off the square edges which shouldn't affect the thickness which is usually around 38mm?

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

I've removed the old binding already so I have the empty binding channel that I'll need to get rid of. If the old binding was still there I could've probably done the roundover on the top of the old binding as you suggested. But it shouldn't be too much of an issue if I'm going to glue on a new top.