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Thread: SG scratchy build

  1. #91
    Overlord of Music andrewdosborne's Avatar
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    Good call I tried something similar on a telecaster good in theory but the whitewash just didn’t take


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  2. #92
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Barnes View Post
    Attachment 29115 back in black the white wash looked terrible
    sometimes you gotta go back to move forward. Loving this build btw.👍🏾
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  3. #93
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	29137 I'm happy with the look now so first coat of tung oil this afternoon

  4. #94
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Thinking about it (with obvious hindsight), it might have been better to do the white first, then try and grain fill with black filler over the top. You may then have needed another white coat after sanding back. There are enough small pores in mahogany to show the grain pattern and make it look interesting (like a Gibson 'TV yellow' finish), but it hasn't got the cross-grain figuring that flame or quilted maple has to take up a darker colour for 'popping'.

  5. #95
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    That looks great!
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  6. #96
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Thinking about it (with obvious hindsight), it might have been better to do the white first, then try and grain fill with black filler over the top. You may then have needed another white coat after sanding back. There are enough small pores in mahogany to show the grain pattern and make it look interesting (like a Gibson 'TV yellow' finish), but it hasn't got the cross-grain figuring that flame or quilted maple has to take up a darker colour for 'popping'.
    Thanks simon. After looking at my other builds i don't think mahogany is really suitable for grain popping Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	29157 same process on basewood Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	29158and the mahogany its all a learning curve

  7. #97
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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ID:	29292 all polished up and shiny, ready to start work on the frets but ive got 2 frets that have lifted and need to be glued back down. Anyone got any tips

  8. #98
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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ID:	29297 now i need to decide between black or crome

  9. #99
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Barnes View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	29290Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	29291Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	29292 all polished up and shiny, ready to start work on the frets but ive got 2 frets that have lifted and need to be glued back down. Anyone got any tips
    Check your slot depth and the roll radius you used, I typically roll them a bit tighter than the board radius whic seems to help the seat tight at the ends.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  10. #100
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    Check your slot depth and the roll radius you used, I typically roll them a bit tighter than the board radius whic seems to help the seat tight at the ends.
    There actually loose i can push the up and down, ive seen a few you tube vids were tthe use super glue to re seat the fret, looking at the photo theres actually 4 sitting high

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