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Thread: RD-4 build. An ode to doom metal.

  1. #21
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    On this bass, the neck pup rout appears to be smaller than the bridge pup rout (or at least the mounting lug cut-outs are closer together. But the pups are designed to be located within a scratchplate, so the general rout has been made larger, probably to allow some sloppiness in the routing location, but also allowing both standard kit and normal Fender-sized pickups to be fitted.

  2. #22
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wazkelly View Post
    That is weird.
    On my J bass i dropped in Entwistle pups and the lugs were slightly more outbound than kit ones. Overall width was the same.

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    Agreed, on the jazz bass I swapped out the stock scratchplate for a clear one, and found the lug holes on the Fender guard needed a little filing as the lugs on the kit pickups were a little too close together, but the hole in the scratchplate was the same size.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    On this bass, the neck pup rout appears to be smaller than the bridge pup rout (or at least the mounting lug cut-outs are closer together. But the pups are designed to be located within a scratchplate, so the general rout has been made larger, probably to allow some sloppiness in the routing location, but also allowing both standard kit and normal Fender-sized pickups to be fitted.
    Well yeah, but the pole spacing is off nonetheless.


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  4. #24
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    But then it is a copy of a Gibson bass (with a Gibson style bridge) using Fender-style pickups. From what I can make out, (in Imperial units), Gibson 4-string bridge spacing is 2.055" (52.2mm) and Fender 2.25" (57.15mm). So that 5mm less width is the main reason the pole pieces are out. It really would have been better for the kit to come with soapbars.

  5. #25
    If it came with soapbars I would have bought 3 by now.


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  6. #26

    RD-4 build. An ode to doom metal.

    Aaaaand it’s finished, need to do a few more tweaks to the setup (including taking down the skyscraper of a nut that it came with, Jesus Christ) and figure out the neckdive common with cool shaped instruments.

    Here’s a total spec sheet/breakdown:

    Color: Black Rit Dye sanded back with 500 grit.
    Pickguard and truss rod cover painted with bedliner
    Finish: Tung Oil
    Moved the input jack from the front to the side to allow for more in the control cavity and because front mounts SUCK
    Electronics:
    -Dimarzio Model J pickups
    -Vol, Vol, Series/Parallel and 5 position On-Board OD/Boost Circuit




    Yeah I know, little bit of overspray. Kinda hard not to get with bedliner





    It sounds mean as hell, I’ve never done a series/parallel switch and now I’m going to to it in EVERYTHING. The mid boost and Db gain sound awesome. The OD/Boost Circuit is something I had lying around and I never use tone knobs so I figured I’d have some fun with this and give it a ton of tonal variations. 20 in total to be exact.

    My favorite setting right now is both pickups in series and the boost at 3, which gives it a tasteful amount of grit.


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    Last edited by Matt Pike's Shirt; 21-08-2018 at 11:12 AM.

  7. #27
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Nice work, that has come together really well.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    Nice work, that has come together really well.
    Thanks dude!


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  9. #29
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Just out of curiosity Mr Matt Pike’s Shirt, how many coats of Tung oil did you apply?

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by DarkMark View Post
    Just out of curiosity Mr Matt Pike’s Shirt, how many coats of Tung oil did you apply?
    2 coats. Minwax specifically, but I know that Fornby’s is the go-to for Tung Oil loyalists. I just had MW lying around from when I used to make bentwood rings

    One super thick coat that I let dry for about 20 minutes then buffed with a rag, let sit overnight then a lighter coat that I repeated the dry/buff process with. I hit the neck with a quick back and forth of 500 grit. It’s not glass smooth like a neck with a shinier finish. It’s more of a baby power smoothness, if that makes sense.


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