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NSW, but at the moment I don't think it matters where you are. Will wait till we get a slightly cooler less humid spell. May just be I went too may coats too quickly.
You recon the Butterscotch takes longer to dry than other DT's?
#1 LP1-SS
#2 Non PB Vintage Strat Rebuild
#3 TL1 - Custom
#4 ES-12G (now converted to ES-1)
#5 RC4
#6 STA-1HT
#7 Non PB 52 Tele replica
#8 Coming Soon: 1970's Japanese Les Paul Special Resto.
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others
Something Similar Doc.
Got the period correct 5 screw pick guard without the neck pickup screw holes and a 7.25in radius '52 model neck, Just need the weather to change so I can give the stain another go.
#1 LP1-SS
#2 Non PB Vintage Strat Rebuild
#3 TL1 - Custom
#4 ES-12G (now converted to ES-1)
#5 RC4
#6 STA-1HT
#7 Non PB 52 Tele replica
#8 Coming Soon: 1970's Japanese Les Paul Special Resto.
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others
#1 LP1-SS
#2 Non PB Vintage Strat Rebuild
#3 TL1 - Custom
#4 ES-12G (now converted to ES-1)
#5 RC4
#6 STA-1HT
#7 Non PB 52 Tele replica
#8 Coming Soon: 1970's Japanese Les Paul Special Resto.
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others
That looks great mate.
Ok so, as there is only a "stain coat" being the mix of butterscotch and white base, it takes just a little longer than a normal stain coat but a lot less than a normal intensifier coat to dry.
Look as a general rule I always wait about a week between stain coats before applying the next coat, if its humid I'll wait two weeks or more.
The thicker you put it on the longer you have to wait.
I found that once I put on each butterscotch coat it would look rad, then fade as it dried. So I'm pretty sure I put on somewhere between 4 and 6 coats all up.
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Cheers Andy, Yes it fades a huge amount, I've got 2 on, and with having done a couple and sanded off probably don't have enough for 6, but will get another one at least.
So, no intensiter - what is the 3rd bottle that says final coat on it?
#1 LP1-SS
#2 Non PB Vintage Strat Rebuild
#3 TL1 - Custom
#4 ES-12G (now converted to ES-1)
#5 RC4
#6 STA-1HT
#7 Non PB 52 Tele replica
#8 Coming Soon: 1970's Japanese Les Paul Special Resto.
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others
FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
Okay so, they way I did it, was I kept putting the stain coats on (mix 50/50) and waited for it to fully dry before I decided whether I wanted to go darker each time. I honestly can't remember how many coats I did.
As I rule I generally don't use DT final coats. but that's just me. You have to put them on super thin, the final coats take waaaaaaaaaaaaaay longer to cure than any other coat. When you are applying the final coats they leach some stain out, which I don't like. If you muck the final coat up (ie put too much on) it weirds out and looks husky and then you have to wait for that to cure before lightly sanding off and i've never been able to do that without sanding some stain off, so then you have to blotch stain again before final coating again....which you may inevitably muck up again.
I have vowed to do my bass all in DT as a final coat....so lets see how that goes.
Look the best conditions to use DT is lowish humidity and about 30 to 35 degrees.
So I usually finish in tru oil. It's a lot quicker, finishes harder, glosses up nicely. also if you chip or ding it...you just patch it up with more tru oil.
Look I read a post that Dingobass wrote with one of the reasons not to use Tru oil (apart from toxicity), he said that it contained silica, which like ground up glass, will gum up the wood and destroy tonal elements of the wood.
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1