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Thread: Cut and polish on Dingotone

  1. #1
    Member Hardcoretroubadour's Avatar
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    Cut and polish on Dingotone

    Alright I am coming into the home stretch of the staining finishing process, looking to do a final cut and polish on the Dingotone final coat. I have seen lots of builds using the Meguiar's car polish and micro mesh sanding pads on Tru oil finishes, does this same method hold true for Dingotone? I am not trying to get a glass like finish, just a nice even semi-gloss that shows off the grain. I have done 4 top coats with very light wet and dry sand at 1200 then 1500 between every second coat to get some of the dust particles and stray fibres off and to key it up for the subsequent coat, is this sounding about right?

  2. #2
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    I've always used DB's trusty photocopier paper method, but I've never been too fussed with high gloss finishes. I'm not sure if you will be able to get the same high gloss finish as you can get with Tru-Oil (just trying to manage your expectations). DB always called it a semi-gloss finish. Others will pitch in with their experiences.
    Current:
    GTH-1

    Completed:
    AST-1FB
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    ES-5V
    Scratchie lapsteel
    Custom ST-1 12 String
    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Wishing:
    Baritone
    Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck

  3. #3
    Member Hardcoretroubadour's Avatar
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    Hi Fretworn, I am not chasing a high gloss finish on this one, just want the grain to come through. What is the 'photocopier paper method'? Haven't come across a reference to that one yet. BTW for those that use Meguirars, what exact type are you using?

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    Overlord of Music WeirdBits's Avatar
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    Scott.

  5. #5
    Member Hardcoretroubadour's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WeirdBits View Post
    Cheers Weirdbits

  6. #6
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    To answer your Maguiers question: ultimate compound for the main cut and scratch x for the final polish

  7. #7
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Be careful as DT takes a very, very long time to cure and harden up. Tend to think if the copy paper developed an edge it may introduce rather blunt scratches in the surface.

    I have never made it past Intensifier coats but from I have seen and read if I was to use the stuff again it would seem that the clear neck finish may work best as the final top coat all over as it is supposed to be a harder finish and therefore not so prone to scratches and minor dents.
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  8. #8
    Member Hardcoretroubadour's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies on the Maguires and the timely reminder to be patient at this stage Waz, I think I will do at least one coat of neck finish on the body. I am still not 100% happy with the neck colour matching the body, still looks to yellow compared to the body, but I'll give it one more intensifying coat then move on or this guitar will never be completed. I can see why you use tru oil

  9. #9
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    DT = lots of patience required

    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  10. #10
    Member Hardcoretroubadour's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wazkelly View Post
    DT = lots of patience required

    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
    Hence my use of a 2 part epoxy on the next build 😄

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