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Thread: Blackwood Tec fingerboards

  1. #1
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Blackwood Tec fingerboards

    I'm really not that enamoured with these Blackwood Tec fingerboards. I'm starting to see small splits open up in some areas on the ESB-4 neck. I know we've seen a few necks on here with big splits in the board. It's also hard to get them feeling anything like as nice as a rosewood neck. I've sanded them down and got them smooth, but then the surface breaks up again and feels 'un-smooth' (rough would be too harsh a word).

    The construction of them isn't anything like as nice as those other samples of a manufactured wood from maybe a year ago. The colour is also on the grey side. I've tried using lemon oil on them which gives a better colour, but the oil's gone within a very short time.

    I'm really not sure that this particular composite board material is the right one to use.

  2. #2
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    It's a shame really, because I prefer the look of "rosewood" fingerboards. But I think I'll probably lean towards maple boards going forward unless another alternative dark, slab fingerboard can be found. The ES-5V I'm making as a present has the blackwood board and I'm already rueing the final set up of the neck. Perhaps we need to look at ways of sealing, rather than oiling the fingerboards?
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  3. #3
    Mentor blinddrew's Avatar
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    Hmmm, is that what I've got on my ES-5V? It just says 'rosewood' on the description. Mind you, I ruined mine with the masking tape debacle so I don't think I can use this as my excuse.

  4. #4
    Member Andy123's Avatar
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    There's always ebony...

    All this talk of blackwood fingerboards on ES-5Vs has me worried. I ordered one nearly a year ago before this was a thing, and it was definitely listed as rosewood. Since then my kit was stolen during the break-in and a replacement kit is currently on its way to me. Fingers crossed I don't have to deal with that.

  5. #5
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Rickenbacker seal their 'Rosewood' boards which these days is probably Bubinga.

    Unless Chinese kit factories can supply genuine ebony it sounds like the better option might be maple which you can always tint or stain for a darker appearance if desired or just leave natural and let it go feral.
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  6. #6
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Rickenbacker have lacquered their rosewood boards for ages.

    I forgot to mention those people whose Blackwood boards had lumps pulled off them with lo-tack masking tape. I don't mind synthetic/composite boards, but they need to do the job properly and whatever these factories is using seems to be rather below par.

  7. #7
    We did send some feedback a few months ago, but more about the blemishes we were seeing on some of the Blackwood fretboards.

    If the consensus is that the Blackwood is no good, then we need to explore other options; although options are limited.

    We are certainly ordering more Ebony and Maple fretboards now and keeping the Blackwood to a minimum. Ebony doesn't suit every guitar and it does add a bit to the cost.

    I have asked the factory if they are exploring any other fretboard options, like Bubinga. Will advise their response.
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  8. #8
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Thanks Adam. I forgot to mention those people who've had bits of the board pull out when just using low-tack masking tape on it. The idea is fine, but the execution seems a bit patchy. Maybe a stronger/different resin is required? If ebony is an option, is it possible to add it to the kit options list? Whilst fully-black ebony won't suit all rosewood style necks, the lighter figured ebony (which I believe is what the factories use) looks very much like figured rosewood, but with a lovely smooth surface. I'd be happy to pay extra for an ebony board option - though I know you want to keep the basic kit price down as much as possible. I expect that the CITES changes have made the alternative rosewood-type woods more popular and maybe in shorter supply as a result, as well as driving up their price.

  9. #9
    Member Airwick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by adam View Post
    We did send some feedback a few months ago, but more about the blemishes we were seeing on some of the Blackwood fretboards.

    If the consensus is that the Blackwood is no good, then we need to explore other options; although options are limited.

    We are certainly ordering more Ebony and Maple fretboards now and keeping the Blackwood to a minimum. Ebony doesn't suit every guitar and it does add a bit to the cost.

    I have asked the factory if they are exploring any other fretboard options, like Bubinga. Will advise their response.
    What about Pau Ferro Fender is using it on most of their Squire guitars?
    Last edited by Airwick; 02-06-2018 at 08:23 PM.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    I'm really not that enamoured with these Blackwood Tec fingerboards. I'm starting to see small splits open up in some areas on the ESB-4 neck. I know we've seen a few necks on here with big splits in the board. It's also hard to get them feeling anything like as nice as a rosewood neck. I've sanded them down and got them smooth, but then the surface breaks up again and feels 'un-smooth' (rough would be too harsh a word).

    The construction of them isn't anything like as nice as those other samples of a manufactured wood from maybe a year ago. The colour is also on the grey side. I've tried using lemon oil on them which gives a better colour, but the oil's gone within a very short time.

    I'm really not sure that this particular composite board material is the right one to use.
    The neck and its Blackwood Tek fingerboard was of pretty low quality on the kit I received. Which is a shame because the idea of using sustainable engineered woods as substitutes for endangered species is a good one and given the CITES regulations unavoidable. I did wonder if there are different grades of the Blackwood Tek product. I have a Harley Benton guitar with a Roseacre / dyed and baked maple fretboard which isn't too bad and that might be a better alternative.

    The fretboard on my Pit Bull neck was very rough surfaced and looked as though it had had some cracks that had been filled. On any guitar neck that has been fretted you really want the fretboard surface to be delivered finish sanded to a very smooth surface because it is very difficult to improve the finish with the frets in the way.

    I did manage some improvement by giving the fretboard a couple of coats of tru oil and then smoothing with 0000 wire wool. The rest of the neck was also very roughly sanded with some very deep scratches along the side of the heel which I did not want to sand too heavily as I wanted to retain a tight fit in the neck pocket.

    BTW - I'm not too happy that my browser warns me this forum is not secure / not using https.

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