I’ve rubbed the last coat down with wire wool, it looks and feels lovely.
I’ve had a bit of a disaster though, despite pre-drilling holes and waxing the screws, a split has appeared in the headstock from the end to centre bottom tuner. Thankfully it’s only about a third to half of the way through so I’ll monitor it for now and screw or dowel it if it gets worse.
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FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
I really like how you moved the stop back so it looks more like a mosrite.
I noticed that in my build and should have thought to do the same!!
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Tele Deluxe: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ht=tele+deluxe
Johnny Ramone:https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...=johnny+ramone
ES2V:https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...?t=7455&page=9
DMS-1 Mustang: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...=10548&page=12
AG-1 Perhaps i am Tony Iommi: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...t=11537&page=7
String length observation/question......
So if a 25.5 (fender) scale length has a tighter string tension and a 24.75 (Gibson) scale length has a looser string tension .......... if the stop tail is put back on the mossie then will the string tension be higher????
Just curious cos when I switch between my guitars I notice how flexy the strings feel on the shorter scale guitars.
Ps: i use 10’s on all my guitars
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Tele Deluxe: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ht=tele+deluxe
Johnny Ramone:https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...=johnny+ramone
ES2V:https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...?t=7455&page=9
DMS-1 Mustang: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...=10548&page=12
AG-1 Perhaps i am Tony Iommi: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...t=11537&page=7
Hi,
The string tension is not changed by where you place the stop bar.
The distance between nut and bridge does decide the string tension and that is the same regardless of where you put the stop bar.
BUT, the tension "into the groves of the bridge" (from "above") will be lower the more you move the stop bar away from the bridge.
A side note, The original Mosrite has a slightly tilted neck (less than a Gibson but more than a Fender) and that will increase the string tension "into the groves of the bridge".
As I think the neck is flat on these kits, I do not know if the tension into the bridge groves will be high enough if you do a full "Johnny Ramone" placement of the stop bar.
P.S. Johnny had his stop bar placed where it was as his guitar originally had a tremolo which he removed. He used the old mounting spots from the tremolo and assembled the stop bar using the old holes.
P.S2. I've also ordered the MKA-2 kit but have also ordered a "real" copy of the body (from a Luthier). I am very curious and exited how this will end up. Pitbull PLEASE ship ASAP, I'm like a kid before X-mas...!
From the kit I'll use the neck (ordered a big, paddle head that I'll convert to the right dimensions), the bridge and stop bar and electronics.
I will the add a body with real dimensions, a pick guard with real dimensions and a Dimarzio FS-1 for the bridge. If I have to modify the neck pocket etc I’ll instead modify/shim the neck and keep the body and pickguard to the original specs.
I might later buy a real/copy with real dimensions of the neck on ebay and a real Mosrite/copy bridge. I AM a Ramones nut…
Last edited by ONSatan; 20-06-2019 at 03:31 PM.
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Olle - Ramones nut from Sweden
Great info there thanks. I wonder how much difference he may have had between his original blue Mossie where he kept the tremolo and the converted white one? Also I think he kept the stock pickups on the blue one.
Good luck with the build when it arrives.
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Wet sanded today, 1500,2000 & 2500 grit. Good news is the sink back did go away, wonderful. Unfortunately I went too hard in a few places, I should have noticed when the water started going blue I suppose. As a result I’ve masked up the bulk and redone the bare areas. It means I have a hard edge to rub out here and there but for someone suffering with a frozen shoulder the thought of having to cut back the whole body again is enough to make me want to give up.
I’ll go light this time, start with the 2000 grit and let the cutting compound do the rest.
How do others get by with building up enough paint on the sides and edges to stop this happening as it’s the second time it’s happened. Is it just a result of using finger pressure to get in and around the curves rather than a flat block used on the front and back? I really thought I’d built the lacquer up enough to stop this happening, at least ten coats.
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