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Thread: Mosrite MKA-2

  1. #31
    I think this photo is a good indication of the amount of work required to grain fill. Despite practically plastering the thing with epoxy filler when its rubbed down a lot of it comes out of the grain. It's fairly clear around the neck area and the horns.
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    Last edited by Mosrite Slab; 28-05-2019 at 10:48 PM.

  2. #32
    Finally, keen eyed readers will notice I’ve moved the string stop back about an inch. It was while looking at Johnny Ramones’ Mossie I noticed how much further towards the tail it was. His was an adaption as it would have originally been made with the cheap tremolo so I don’t think there’s a hard and fast rule about a correct distance.


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  3. #33

    Mosrite MKA-2

    The painting of the body is finally finished - I hope! I lost count of the number of coats of blue, four small cans in total. Then a large can of lacquer, but after cutting back with 2000 grit a couple of areas were a bit smeary, almost like bleed through. I gave these a couple of coats of blue and then straight over the whole thing again with another large can of clear, probably ten or more coats. I'm really pleased with how it's come out for a first attempt, it'll sit for a couple of weeks before cutting back 1500, 2000 to 2500 grit and then polish.

    Frustratingly though, the more coats it's had has revealed the dowels despite the amount of filling, sanding, priming and painting. These were never visible in primer so I'm hoping the worst will disappear when it's cut back. The scratch plate and bridge will hide most of it but there's one between the stop and bridge. I'll see how it goes, if it's really visible I might put a non-functioning Jaguar tremolo over it as it's similar to the Ventures II one with a large tinplate base.

    The Tru-oil for the neck has been ordered and will keep me occupied while waiting for the paint to go off.
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    Last edited by Mosrite Slab; 04-06-2019 at 05:34 AM.

  4. #34
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Looks tasty. Sink back is very hard to avoid, if you look closely at some commercial finishes you can see it there as well, especially on guitars a few years old. The longer you can resist cutting it back, the more likely you'll be able to polish that area flat.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
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    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  5. Liked by: Mosrite Slab

  6. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    Looks tasty. Sink back is very hard to avoid, if you look closely at some commercial finishes you can see it there as well, especially on guitars a few years old. The longer you can resist cutting it back, the more likely you'll be able to polish that area flat.
    Thanks for that, it’s been so long I’m happy to wait. I’d rather do that than have to go through a patch process.


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  7. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mosrite Slab View Post
    The painting of the body is finally finished - I hope! I lost count of the number of coats of blue, four small cans in total. Then a large can of lacquer, but after cutting back with 2000 grit a couple of areas were a bit smeary, almost like bleed through. I gave these a couple of coats of blue and then straight over the whole thing again with another large can of clear, probably ten or more coats. I'm really pleased with how it's come out for a first attempt, it'll sit for a couple of weeks before cutting back 1500, 2000 to 2500 grit and then polish.

    Frustratingly though, the more coats it's had has revealed the dowels despite the amount of filling, sanding, priming and painting. These were never visible in primer so I'm hoping the worst will disappear when it's cut back. The scratch plate and bridge will hide most of it but there's one between the stop and bridge. I'll see how it goes, if it's really visible I might put a non-functioning Jaguar tremolo over it as it's similar to the Ventures II one with a large tinplate base.

    The Tru-oil for the neck has been ordered and will keep me occupied while waiting for the paint to go off.
    I had the same issue with "sink" on mine... live and learn ! I'm guessing I simply should have left it sit for a few weeks before filling, priming and sanding again. Just to give it all tie to settle. Guessing the glue might be pulling the dowel in as it cures... or the wood slightly swells with the moisture of the glue and then contracts again ?

    That's an awesome blue. Looks like you could dive into into it !
    TL-1 (just arrived)
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  8. #37

    Mosrite MKA-2

    The Tru-oil has arrived and I'm working on the neck.

    Early on in the build a cheap G clamp made an indent in the fretboard, here are pics of the repair I carried out using some rosewood sawdust and superglue. I'm pleased with the repair but lessons learned for next time are to cut the piece of scrap with a much finer toothed saw blade and to get some thinner glue with a small dropper. I couldn't believe how hard superglue sets and I was seriously worried I might carve a piece of the fretboard out while cutting down flush, either that or some of my finger if it slipped.
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    Last edited by Mosrite Slab; 11-06-2019 at 03:39 AM.

  9. #38
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    Hmmm... I have had a chip in the rosewood fingerboard on a '75 p-bass for years... Finally an idea of what to do with it! Great idea!

  10. #39
    Member I’ll give it a go's Avatar
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    Well recovered


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  11. #40
    I’m about 10 coats of Tru-oil into the neck, light wire wool sanding between coats.

    What’s the best thing to do for the finish though, leave the last coat or rub down and apply their Gun Stock Wax?


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