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Thread: Drew's ES-5V first (ish) build

  1. #1
    Mentor blinddrew's Avatar
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    Drew's ES-5V first (ish) build

    Well a box turned up today: https://photos.app.goo.gl/mgRujmWYxagTTbXw1
    Which had some stuff in it: https://photos.app.goo.gl/OM35PTHWen4Pcivq2
    A couple of big bits: https://photos.app.goo.gl/e6OKXhefiIcTOEfl2
    plus some grover tuners and a bone nut.
    It even seems to fit together in some way: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8zoE1YIj4AI1xaTI3

    Will give it a proper look over at the weekend but all appears good from an initial inspection. Let's face it though, it's come 12,000 miles so there's not going to be a great deal to do about it otherwise.

    Expect the flood of dumb questions in 3, 2, 1...

  2. #2
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Drew, if you're on a PC, click on the actual picture, then right click on that and 'copy image location. You can then paste for the 'insert image' icon link (use the URL option but don't tick the upload locally box unless it's smaller then 1500 pixels on any side) and it will display the photo directly.

    e.g.


  3. #3
    Mentor blinddrew's Avatar
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    Cheers Simon, will do.

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    Member trv's Avatar
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    That's a big beautiful blank canvas to start with! What do you have in mind for the finish?

  5. #5
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    If that's a dent in the top by the top F-hole (it doesn't show on the top down photo), it should steam out. Get an iron on its really hot setting, then place a damp cloth over the dented area and apply the iron on top. You should find that 10 seconds or so of steam should see the dent removed.

    It will raise some fibres on the top, but that doesn't matter, as it's a good idea to lightly damp the top down to raise all the loose fibres anyway. Wait for the wood to dry, then lightly sand them off with a fine sandpaper, say P240 to P400.

  6. #6
    Mentor blinddrew's Avatar
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    Cheers Simon, I think it's just a scratch rather than a dent or a ding but I'll have a proper look in decent light at the weekend. The line of it suggests that it might be a tooling error from cutting the f hole.

    Trv - I'm thinking a clear finish throughout. My quick look yesterday suggested that the ply has a pretty nice pattern and shape to it so I'll start on that basis. I'm very much a wood-finish-guitar person, in fact, I think all of my guitars are 'natural' finishes, certainly on the top. Also, this being my first attempt at this kind of thing, I'm going to try not to over-complicate things.

  7. #7
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Man, that does look good and a clear would enhance the grain nicely.
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  8. #8
    Mentor blinddrew's Avatar
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    So I'm thinking next steps are to order some glue (titebond original) and some tru-oil. I've been advised that these folks are good supplier in the UK for finishes and tools:
    https://tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/
    https://www.rothkoandfrost.com/
    http://www.chrisalsopguitar.co.uk/sh...te=common/home
    So I shall be having a shufti there soon (thanks Simon!).
    I guess one of my questions is: how much tru-oil do I need? I guess the overall surface area of the guitar is something in the region of half a square meter, and from reading previous threads I'm looking at many, many coats, but that still leaves me a bit in the dark. Any suggestions?

  9. #9
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I'd suggest an 8oz bottle as there's a lot of guitar to cover. The later coats can be thinned down 50/50 with turps.

    I'd also suggest a 3oz bottle of the matching Birchwood Casey sealer + filler and apply a couple of coats of that after any stain and before the Tru-Oil.

  10. #10
    Mentor blinddrew's Avatar
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    In the meantime I've had a better look at the kit parts and have identified a few things that will need a bit of thought:
    The back of the headstock has a bit of a notch at the top that will need taking care of:
    But of more concern is the front, where two slightly different approaches to the bottom corners have been taken, left corner:

    And right corner:

    That's enough about the headstock...

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