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Thread: trv's Spalted Maple LP-1SS

  1. #71
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Wow. Good fix on the bridge.

    Everything is a learning exercise. I think part of the reason this is so addictive is that you learn so much as you go, you want to apply it to new builds!
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
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    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  2. #72
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Heat shrink on exposed ends of the 3 way switch is what I do and also use rubber or nylon washers as spacers between pots, cavity shielding & body so that when tightened from above control knobs sit more flush with the body plus you have also eliminated any potential earth shorts too.
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
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  3. #73
    Member trv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    One of the threads I have read suggests that if pot contact is likely with the shielding, you could put some insulation tape or some other non conductive material under the pot as an insulator.
    The electrickery stuff is not my favourite task, so well done you!
    Thank you FrankenWashie. That's a good idea. I was thinking of putting electrical tape between the 3-way switch and the shielding at first, but realized that if I just changed the angle of the wires it wouldn't be necessary.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    Wow. Good fix on the bridge.

    Everything is a learning exercise. I think part of the reason this is so addictive is that you learn so much as you go, you want to apply it to new builds!
    Thanks Sonic. This is definitely addictive; I've already got my next 3-4 builds in mind. I just hope I actually retain a good portion of what I've learnt throughout this process.

    Quote Originally Posted by wazkelly View Post
    Heat shrink on exposed ends of the 3 way switch is what I do and also use rubber or nylon washers as spacers between pots, cavity shielding & body so that when tightened from above control knobs sit more flush with the body plus you have also eliminated any potential earth shorts too.
    That's a brilliant idea waz, I never would have thought of it either. I actually do have heat shrink running between the 3-way switch cavity and the pickup cavities, but that's just to keep things organized, it's not functional like you suggested.

  4. #74
    Member trv's Avatar
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    Now that the wiring was done it was time to assemble. Everything went together how it should, the only minor issue was that I could park a bus under the action with the new nut in place
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    So I did some measuring, threw it in a vice, sanded off 1/16" from the bottom and reinstalled it.

  5. #75
    Member trv's Avatar
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    I set the action, pick up height, intonation and... Done! I'm embarrassed to say for as many years as I've been playing guitar I never learned how to set intonation until now. I'm not sure it's of any interest to anyone but I set the action to 5/64" at the 12th fret on the low side and 1/16" on the high side.

    A couple quick pics after final assembly
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  6. #76
    Member trv's Avatar
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    Finished.
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  7. #77
    Member trv's Avatar
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  8. #78
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    Wow that looks fantastic. The black finish is so deep and shiny!!! Well done

  9. #79
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    Outstanding. Really. I keep coming back to look at the pics.

  10. #80
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Great result and build. Looking forward to your next one.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

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