RC 12 ( to the nines)

[Simon Barden]

Bill said he notched the saddles himself, so they don't come like that. Also, it's not the standard kit bridge (which is a standard Tune-O-Matic type).

Here's the standard kit plastic nut (which you'll probably want to replace with a bone one) showing standard 12-string spacing.

[Gary B]

Thanks Simon, that's good news.
Have to wait til my birthday (August) for this - plenty of time to think about upgrades though!

[Simon Barden]

Very few (almost zero) adjustable 12-string bridges out there. I had a neat one on a 12-String Yamaha Pacifica (albeit the string spacing was far too narrow for me so I passed it on) but that Ric one is the only other one I've seen.

There'll be an intonation compromise on the octave pairs with a six-saddle TOM, but as you'll rarely have a 12-string in tune it wont matter anyway.

[Bill Jackson]

Probably right. I hated toying with it. I used a Stew-Mac fret file to shave the 45 degree corresponding angles....down about a millimeter and one-half. There remains a very slight indentation, but hardly visible. What I do now is in uncharted water. But I'm going with an old center punch with a point filed sharp (like a slotted screw driver) Think it'll work? Thanks.

[Bill Jackson]

That nut is similar to the kit product. I nearly bought a 'Tusq' type, but I got a Ric 12 string nut on Ebay. By the way, what kind of tool cuts a notch in a saddle? Now that I removed the 12 saddles, I could put them in a vise one at a time and whack it with confidence.

[Simon Barden]

You'll probably still want to adjust the nut slot depth, and you've really got two methods. The first (and best way IMO) is to buy a set of nut files. This is worth it if you've plan to make several guitars, have guitars that need to set up, or want to do a really good job. StewMac sell them. http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...ic_Guitar.html You might want to buy a set + some individual files dependent upon the gauge of strings you plan to use on your guitar, so look at the gauges in your normal 12 string set.

I cut my slots by eye, just angling the nut file slightly down towards the headstock side of the nut. I sometimes over-cut the depth and have to replace the nut, so I keep a store of bone nuts for Fender and Gibson style nuts that I buy several off at a time. With the extra pressure required to hold down 12 strings instead of 6, you'll want to get the strings as low as possible over the 1st fret , which helps reduce the open string action height all along the neck and so the force needed to press all the strings down, especially near the nut.

The second is to remove the nut by multiple gentle taps with a hammer via a small wood block. Then clean glue from the slot. Replace the nut and string up so the nut is just held under string tension. Determine by how much the strings generally need to be lowered so that they still clear the 1st fret so you know roughly how much the nut needs lowering. Slacken the strings, remove the nut and sand the base down a bit on a flat piece of sandpaper. Sand a bit, replace the nut, tighten the strings and see where you are. It's better to make several small reductions rather than risk one big one, and over-sand and get string buzz on the first fret. Once the nut is the right height, You can stick it in place with a wipe of woodglue/Titebond, using sting pressure to clamp it in place. I'd leave it overnight before retuning. If you sand too far you can either get a new nut and repeat the process, or add a veneer shim under the nut (which may then require a bit more sanding).

You can use nut files to notch your saddles exactly, though most pre-notched saddles come with an equal sized V-notch in them which seems to work with all string gauges. You cab do this with the edge of a small triangular shaped file. Needle file sets will have one of these.

Whatever you use to notch the saddles, just make sure that the notches are of equal depth. They don't need to be very deep at all, just enough to keep the string in place. The deeper you notch, the higher the bridge needs to be to compensate, and I prefer to keep my bridges as low as possible to make them more secure. I'd prefer to file the notches if the saddles were out of the bridge rather than just lay some string over them and hit it with a hammer.

However, I'd still prefer to mark the string positions first with the saddles on the bridge and it all strung up, as you will get the best positions for the notches and can ensure that you position the strings an equal distance apart for each pair, and that each pair is a balanced distance apart.

[Bill Jackson]

As far as 'rules of thumb', you're the master. It's uncanny that what you recommend is almost exactly as I see it. That said, even when I know better, I still resort to a half-ass method. The question of 'why' has haunted me for ages. I've spent a good deal of time contemplating how to reconcile impulsiveness with good judgement and common sense.I guess it boils down to the bottom line.
P.S. I was thinking needle file, but I've never seen one with a sharp enough edge. When I finish punching those saddles, I'll send a picture. We'll compare notes. Thanks.

[Simon Barden]

Yes, I don't always follow my own good advice/knowledge and I always end up kicking myself afterwards. Hope it all goes well.

[Singing Frog]

Eddy would find this one hard to play with the string spacing as is, apart from the obvious mistake, how did you fit the strings into the tail piece? only 6 slots so did you fit 2 strings per slot?

[Singing Frog]

Rickenbacker, for reasons best known only to them, have always strung their 12 string electrics "back to front". Conventional wisdom is that the octave string is above the standard so that all strings will ring out properly when you downstroke a chord. All other major guitar companies use the octave above standard configuration.

It's got to do with the 12-6 converter comb.