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Thread: Adjusting for string length

  1. #1

    Adjusting for string length

    Doing a RD Artist build Neck scale length is 648 mm, nut to 12th fret is 324 mm and length from 12th fret to bridge center is 334 mm on the treble side. When i had this body made I requested 648 scale length is it set to long or made for a different scale. Next question is how to fix if needed remove wood from neck shaft or reroute a longer neck pocket ?


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  2. #2
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Hmmm, looks like you wanted 25.5" scale rather than typical 24.75" for a Gibbo style?

    Suggest re-checking measurement from inner side of nut to middle of high E saddle on the bridge which should hopefully read 25.5" or 648 mm. If not, how far out is it? From your initial post it would suggest 10 mm?

    Best to check total scale length rather than to 12th fret from nut and then from same position to bridge as that does not always give the best reading of where things are at.

    If after re-checking all combinations and total length is 658 mm it would suggest 10 mm needs to come off the back of neck pocket. Best not to alter shape of neck heel as way too easy to stuff things up.

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  3. #3
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hey Roadkill, as Waz suggested measure distance nut to saddles and let us know if it's 648 or 658mm. I wouldn't touch the neck pocket or neck heel. The only way to correct it will be to plug the bridge post holes and re-drill closer to the neck if it's out by 10mm.
    Wind the bridge saddles as far forward as possible and post the distances please, overall length and 12th fret crown to bridge saddles.
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  4. #4
    ok remeasured the length is 658 mm from saddle in middle of bridge to nut, slid saddle all the way forward and was 654-655 mm. These number were on the high E string side.

  5. #5
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadkill View Post
    ok remeasured the length is 658 mm from saddle in middle of bridge to nut, slid saddle all the way forward and was 654-655 mm. These number were on the high E string side.
    Ok, Wokka's suggestion of plugging bridge post holes with dowel and re-drilling sounds like easiest option unless you were going for a stain as those plugs may be hard to hide.

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  6. #6
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Roadkill what's the distance 12th fret to low E string ?

    looks like you might need to move the bridge forward about 5-7mm. THe bridge should be angled so low E is further than high E
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  7. #7
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Conflicting advice here, but I wouldn't move the bridge forwards as the bridge pickup will then end up too near the bridge and the sound will become too thin.

    You don't want to take anything off the back-end of the neck itself as that will leave the last fret unsupported and the fretboard overhang too long. It will then become very weak, with the chance that even a small knock will break off the end of the fretboard.

    So extending the neck pocket would be my choice. Something that could be done with a Dremel and a drum sanding bit if you didn't want to try routing it. Or even done with some sharp chisels. The end of the pocket is covered by the fretboard overhang, so if you don't get it looking 100% perfect, you are unlikely to see it with the neck on.

    The neck's a bolt-on one, and it looks like you've currently got 10mm or so of the flat section of the heel poking out from the front of the neck pocket, so you can move it back that amount without it looking odd.

  8. #8
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Tend to agree Simon as the fretboard overhang should hide any scars. Never been confident re-drilling bridge post holes.
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  9. #9
    ok routed out the neck pocket took out about 7mm, treble side measurement is 650mm and bass side 653mm. Looks like this should intonate now( hopefully).

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    Last edited by Roadkill; 23-02-2018 at 07:44 AM.

  10. #10

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