Thank you Trevor.
1. makes sense, thanks.
2. also makes sense, thanks - I checked out one of my other electric guitars and I see how that works now
3. okay I see I have not done that correctly but now I understand
Thanks!
Thank you Trevor.
1. makes sense, thanks.
2. also makes sense, thanks - I checked out one of my other electric guitars and I see how that works now
3. okay I see I have not done that correctly but now I understand
Thanks!
Hi Alexl,
For the 3-way switch, one of the nuts and the washer will need to be undone and removed, then insert the switch through the hole, then place on the washer and nut on the front of the body. I'm sure on one of my builds I had to remove the second nut also as there was not enough thread pocking though the body.
There should also be a small nut and washer in the Hardware pack for the volume pot.
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
Thank you! I'll give that a go. I thought I should check before soldering it up since it's gonna be pretty tight with the wiring (I am a very amateur solder-er and I stuffed up a few times haha)
You don't want to try and pry it off with anything hard or metal as you will likely damage the finish.
What I do in this situation is use a flat shoe lace. Slide the shoe lace under the base of the knob then apply an upward pressure holding the shoe lace with your hands either side of the knob against the body, sort of fist-like (it's hard to describe in words!).
You're not so much pulling the lace, but lifting it, using the bottom of your fists as the fulcrum point.
Make any sense at all????
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
The springs can be as wonky or as straight as you wish. The straighter the spring, the less force is needed to use trem arm, as you are stretching an angled spring more for the same amount of trem arm travel compared to a straight spring. Do you can use angled springs to fine tune the trem arm resistance (though it is quite a subtle effect).
If it was mine, I’d probably move the top spring to the top hole on the block to get the sideways forces on the bridge from the springs better balanced.
For some reason they’ve added a sixth hole on the block (five is the norm on a 6-string trem block) so you’ve lost the 1:1 ratio with the five spring claw hooks, making it hard to get a balanced look or three parallel springs. If it really bugs you, you could always drill your own spring holes in the block.
Thanks Simon!
Good news first! After more than four years (mostly of procrastinating), I have a guitar!
Bad news, I must've messed something up in the wiring cos ain't no sound coming out now will be chasing that down the rabbit hole...
So I have another question about the bridge. I don't really play lead stuff using a whammy bar so something I've done in the past is just stick a piece of wood into the back cavity so bridge can't float, like above. The springs still really want to pop out though (even without the wood there)... how to I get them to stay in place?