Jarrod will have a fit, but this is just Septone Top Coat Clear. It was sprayed over 2 or 3 weeks with very light coats and the occasional light sand. It then spent a week hanging in the shed in hot dry weather with a fan on it before I started cutting it.
Its really hard, you can feel it when sanding that it's well cured so I think it will stay pretty stable.
I should have used a poly really. I will on the Steampunker.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
While I'm waiting for more waterslide paper to arrive I figured Id give the TRC a bit of love.
lookin' good. I'll clear over it and then do a normal water slide. "Black Cherry" seems to be apt for this, so thanks to Brownsworthy for that one. I think every single build I've deviated from the original post in some way. you really do just need to go with the flow sometimes.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
So a bit of progress.
Stole the customised grovers off the Victory build. They go well with the TRC. The logo will be reversed out of a black stripe down the middle, so the lettering will be aluminium.
After much stress and extreme care I got my bridge and tailpiece posts in. Lovely and clean. I ended up using an old mechanics trick. I put the post receivers in the freezer and warmed up the body with a hair dryer. Then quickly moved the receivers into place and gave them a couple of taps with the mallet and they went in really smoothly. They certainly aren't coming out. Which of course is a problem because you'll never guess what I forgot to do first.
Yup, earth wire. Dang. Fortunately the bore for that is easy to access on this guitar, so I got a sharp drill bit and drilled through the receiver, inserted some stripped wire and screwed the post in. All good thankfully, but here wee some choice words when I first realised what I had done.
So this brings me to wiring (Heya Weirdbits)I have spent a bit of time this morning going between the standard wiring diagrams, the Lace wiring guides and push pull pots. I'm starting to get a bit lost, I think I need more eyes.
I've got 2 push pull pots for the volume controls. I want to leave the tone's as normal. When they are pushed in I'm after standard 2 humbuckers, 2 volume, 2 tone. If I pull up on the neck volume I want to split that coil and same for the bridge volume.
This is what I have so far and I'm not convinced its correct for what I want to do. I can't decide if the black/white wire (I've drawn as dark grey) needs to go to earth for this to work? I've included some pics from Lace which I hope will help.
My attempt:
Lace diagrams:
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
Haha! I'm glad to have helped, Sonic!
That truss rod cover looks kinda like a weapon! I'm sure with those pickups and set up this one will definitely be quite a weapon!
Truss rod cover looks amazing! Such a great shape, and so shinyyyy
The black & white aka your dark grey should be connected to ground in normal non-split mode. Normally, I'd just link that to the back of the pot and your wiring would be good to go. However, Lace suggest having the ground switched between the black/white and plain white when splitting. I'm not sure if this is because it works better with the pickup's internal configuration or just ease of wiring, but probably best to go with that.
So, instead, connect your ground to the middle lug of the push/pull, the black/white (your dark grey) to the right lug (as drawn) and white to the left lug (as drawn). That follows the Lace advice and gives you split when up and normal when down.
(I drew up something a little crazier a while back)
Last edited by WeirdBits; 17-01-2018 at 10:31 AM.
Scott.
You are a legend Scott, thanks for that, I think you've cleared up my confusion, but, please bear with me as my brain is fried this afternoon: Is this now correct? I've basically just introduced a switched earth off the black and white (dark grey) wire, rather than just permanently earthing it?
Cheers.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
Holly crap...lol, one electrical customisation at a time for me!Originally Posted by WeirdBits
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
Yep, your connections to the push/pulls are correct. The only thing that you are missing is for the black wire linking the middle lugs on the two push/pulls to explicitly connect to ground, or is that to be assumed where it crosses the link to the toggle switch ground?
Scott.
Ah yes, that is supposed to be a join there and not just the wires passing over each other. The earthing can probably be a streamlined a bit.
Awesome. It makes sense to me now, I just need to find some time to actually do.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
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