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Thread: Marcel's folley #6 a PRS-1H

  1. #31
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    It's oil based so it's slow. 6hrs to re-coat, 24hrs cure for a normal coat. Though I doubt this blemish is normal thickness... but when it is cured it is a good hard coating...

  2. #32
    yeh id flow coat it just make sure you sand even so you don't go through the clear you don't need to get it super flat, a panel beaters trick is to put filler over the bad spot and then sand it, what that does is keeps things even so you don't get low and high spots when wet sanding also works great on runs so any of you guys get any runs that's how its fixed with out buggering the finish up, by sanding through. so if it was me Marcel id light sand it and go another light coat BUT Cabots when you sand it only do light coats as can swell up if its to thicker coat
    Last edited by phrozin; 23-11-2017 at 09:10 PM.

  3. #33
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    I tried to do what you said Phrozin, but it seems any luck has abandoned me for greener pastures...

    Left it for the better part of a week to let it 'cure'. Got some 320 wrapped around a short piece of dowel rod and it was working great, that was until I hit the soft centre. Little balls of firm and still un-cured poly suddenly erupted from under the offensive wave. I cleared them away as best I could and was left with a gaping trench that showed exactly how thick that last coat was. I resigned to the fact that this would become a scar and continued to sand around the trench to minimise the cliff faces. I also scuff sanded the whole build and then put on another very thin coat of poly.

    While I pondered over the mess that I have made for myself I wondered if there was any way to cover it up, and interestingly I toyed with the idea of fitting a pick-guard. Not your normal thing for a PRS build, but a modified LP guard would substantially mask off this scar, effectively hiding it.... I have a few spare LP guards of various colours, so I'll keep that thought in reserve...

  4. #34
    Mentor nitroburner1000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marcel View Post
    I tried to do what you said Phrozin, but it seems any luck has abandoned me for greener pastures...

    Left it for the better part of a week to let it 'cure'. Got some 320 wrapped around a short piece of dowel rod and it was working great, that was until I hit the soft centre. Little balls of firm and still un-cured poly suddenly erupted from under the offensive wave. I cleared them away as best I could and was left with a gaping trench that showed exactly how thick that last coat was. I resigned to the fact that this would become a scar and continued to sand around the trench to minimise the cliff faces. I also scuff sanded the whole build and then put on another very thin coat of poly.

    While I pondered over the mess that I have made for myself I wondered if there was any way to cover it up, and interestingly I toyed with the idea of fitting a pick-guard. Not your normal thing for a PRS build, but a modified LP guard would substantially mask off this scar, effectively hiding it.... I have a few spare LP guards of various colours, so I'll keep that thought in reserve...
    I feel ya mate, just did the same with my guitar, got 2 large runs on the edge and one below the bridge. I was lucky that i was using 2k and was able to sand them back after 2 days as it cures super fast. You could always wipe the area over with turps, an oilbased base and see if you can resoften it. It wont harm any hardened areas, although thinners will soften the whole lot but you would have to be extremely careful. Please enter at own risk.
    Last edited by nitroburner1000; 26-11-2017 at 07:01 PM.
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  5. #35
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    Something I often do nitro after a scuff sanding is give the build a wipe over with a rag dampened with Turps. Mostly its is to get rid of grease and skin oils from handling before a coat, it also removes sanding dust really well, but I've yet to encounter any noticeable softening of previous coats....

  6. #36
    Mentor nitroburner1000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marcel View Post
    Something I often do nitro after a scuff sanding is give the build a wipe over with a rag dampened with Turps. Mostly its is to get rid of grease and skin oils from handling before a coat, it also removes sanding dust really well, but I've yet to encounter any noticeable softening of previous coats....
    I agree but i was only talking about the wettish area under the run when you scraped the top layer off, turps isnt powerful enough to cut through hardened clear.
    Fender electric Fat Strat mim. (Bought)
    Maton Electric Acoustic EM325C
    Pitbull Guitars ST-1 ( finished) http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5970
    Pitbull Guitars SG-2 ( Finished) http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6124

    Pitbull Guitars JM-1 (Finished. 2018 June GOTM))http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7150
    Pitbull Guitars TL-1 (In production) [url]https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=8676

  7. #37
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    So the 'folly' aspect of this build got the better of me yesterday and I went and ordered some new PU's without even trying the kit PU's like I had originally intended.

    Like the fool that I am I spent up AU$120 on a pair of new Epiphone ProBuckers in Gold. I've seen some comments on YouTube that were quite favourable and demo's that pleased my ears so when I saw them for the price I simply couldn't refuse. Hopefully the hype and expectations are wildly exceeded...

  8. #38
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marcel View Post
    Like the fool that I am I spent up AU$120 on a pair of new Epiphone ProBuckers in Gold.
    What are you worrying about? I dropped nearly $300 on a pair of SD Black Winter and nearly $200 on a set of Lace Dissonant Agressors. Neither set is likely to get fired up anytime soon.

    Fool? Nay sir, you are a sober and reasoned gentleman by comparison. As for me, I blame Igor, he can't help himself when it comes to shiny things.
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  10. #39
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    What are you worrying about? I dropped nearly $300 on a pair of SD Black Winter and nearly $200 on a set of Lace Dissonant Agressors. Neither set is likely to get fired up anytime soon.

    Fool? Nay sir, you are a sober and reasoned gentleman by comparison. As for me, I blame Igor, he can't help himself when it comes to shiny things.
    I know the feeling all too well FW ... On a early Strat build I threw $450 on a set of SD PU's, then there was the tuners, the bridge, the switch & pots & guard, & nut on top of getting the body and neck separately and putting a finish on the bugger... mind you I think it was worth it.... and despite the wonderful Bling aspect it gets harder to rationalise these 'improvement' things as funds grow tighter...

  11. #40
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marcel View Post
    I know the feeling all too well FW ... On a early Strat build I threw $450 on a set of SD PU's, then there was the tuners, the bridge, the switch & pots & guard, & nut on top of getting the body and neck separately and putting a finish on the bugger... mind you I think it was worth it.... and despite the wonderful Bling aspect it gets harder to rationalise these 'improvement' things as funds grow tighter...
    Goldurnned shiny guitar thingamys 🤬🤪
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