DingoTone Grain Filling Capability

[Raven]

Just wondering if DT finish will act as a filler or binding agent for any sanding residue that collects in grain lines.
I air blasted my Ash body after final sanding (with 400 grade) to find that previously filled grain lines were no longer filled.

If I re-sand and rub with DT will the base coat (or other coats) bind any captured dust into the grain micro-crevices ?

[wokkaboy]

Hi Raven,
ash grain really has to be grain filled as its such a coarse grain. Get some Timbermate and mix a slurry with water and apply. I wouldn't think the DT will bind much of the fine sawdust so best air blast the body when you are ready to stain

[DrNomis_44]

Timbermate is definitely the way to go with regards to grain filling, as Wokkaboy says, make a slurry that's about the consistency of a milkshake from some Timbermate paste, then cover the whole body with it and give it time to dry, after that sand it off down to bare wood and then it should be ready for applying the Dingotone finish, and make sure you give each coat of Dingotone plenty of time to dry before applying the next coat.

[wazkelly]

Dingo Tone has quite a watery viscosity and therefore zero grain fill properties.
Timber Mate is an easy grain filler to work with and can also help to pop the grain too.

[Raven]

I will confine questions here to DingoTone and place other comments and questions under my own diary build thread
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7882

I put on a base coat of Nullarbor Ochre onto my JMA-1 body and having given it about 3 days to dry have found that it did not hide the seam/glue lines or other glue residue marks on the body. My prime question is about whether enhancer or top coats will add any hiding power.


Other question is if I were to apply another base coat how much darker would it become? Would re-sanding first be the way to go to improve consistency and remove what might be filler blotches or other imperfections ?

[wazkelly]

I will confine questions here to DingoTone and place other comments and questions under my own diary build thread
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7882

I put on a base coat of Nullarbor Ochre onto my JMA-1 body and having given it about 3 days to dry have found that it did not hide the seam/glue lines or other glue residue marks on the body. My prime question is about whether enhancer or top coats will add any hiding power.


Other question is if I were to apply another base coat how much darker would it become? Would re-sanding first be the way to go to improve consistency and remove what might be filler blotches or other imperfections ?

Unfortunately those glue lines are quite common and hard to disguise.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

[swinnall]

Hi Guys

I am going to do the ES-5V with a blonde finish of butterscotch DT. Which colour Timbermate should I go for - presumably white.

Maybe no filler needed??

Please confirm.

Cheers

Steve W

[Fretworn]

If you want to highlight the grain you can go with a dark Timbermate. If not try and match the colour best you can. For basswood I usually mix my own colour using brown and white. Basswood is much closer grained and you may be able to get away without it, but better safe than sorry.

[Andy40]

A couple of things with DT guys. Its probably best to only sand to 240 grit rather than to a higher grade as the wood need a bit of tooth to grip on to.

The glue line will show unless you attack it a bit more with some sand paper then re-stain.

My practice is to grain fill even on maple, but I imagine you don't have to.