Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 29

Thread: Chrissy's ST-1M

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    North East UK
    Posts
    356

    Chrissy's ST-1M

    Had this a while so soon to be starting it, it is going to be yellow of all colours with an antique yellow neck all finished in tru oil, my first attempt at this, is tru oil ok just to put onto the fret board direct? would like to keep that natural
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1 [Guitar] (2).jpg 
Views:	244 
Size:	78.4 KB 
ID:	22863   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2 [Guitar] (2).jpg 
Views:	240 
Size:	64.2 KB 
ID:	22864   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	3 [Guitar] (2).jpg 
Views:	240 
Size:	60.5 KB 
ID:	22865  

  2. #2
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Bouldercombe Qld.
    Posts
    1,168
    I've done the TO on the neck twice before. One time with two coats to seal in a darker stain on a rosewood fretboard which worked quite well. The other time many moons ago with about 10 coats on a Maple neck like you have, which came out less than impressive. A lot of work to afterwards clean the fret bars on both and I'm not too enthusiastic to the feel of the fretboard with a thick coating of many layers of TO on it. One or two very thin rubbed back coats is passable but with many coats it gets too grippy for a older heavy neck hander like me, so even when fully cured the bending strings thing becomes a finger tip skin tearing task.

    Solid Yellow or stain Yellow?

  3. #3
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Caloundra West, Sunshine Coast Qld
    Posts
    6,631
    TO on fret maple fret board is OK and suggest thinning it down to 50:50 with turps and doing about 5 or 6 coats. Once cured you can polish it off the frets quite easily. Have done 2 out of 6 builds with maple boards and used even more TO coats than that and both turned out great. The secret is in using diluted coats and almost wiping it dry as you apply finish, that way it doesn't build up too much thickness.
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  4. #4
    Member Swanny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Morayfield, Qld
    Posts
    482
    I used a bees wax product on my first build, but you don't get to bend strings too much on a 12 string. My second build was my son's guitar, we just stained the fretboard, and he shreds fine on it.
    I wasn't too concerned about the finish of his guitar, as I knew he'd move on, but the 12 String I wanted to do right.
    Last edited by Swanny; 20-10-2017 at 08:52 PM.
    1st build - Blue ES-12G ->-Build Diary-<-

    2nd build - Father/Son collaboration MB-1 ->-Build Diary-<-

    3rd build - GR-SF1 ->-Build Diary-<-

    4th build - FS-1 ->-Build Diary-<-

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    North East UK
    Posts
    356
    As per this Marcel... same stain 7 mins into the video.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l92a...s&pbjreload=10

    Will do the 50/50 approach to try it Waz... no chance of me doing string bends as yet..got to learn how to play yet....

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    North East UK
    Posts
    356
    So guys, any innovative ideas on how to fill the gap?... its about 1mm, neck is going to be tru oil no stain, the body will be stained then tru oiled... filling before or after attaching the neck and before or after the stain?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	gap1 [Guitar].jpg 
Views:	213 
Size:	37.6 KB 
ID:	22907   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	gap2 [Guitar].jpg 
Views:	214 
Size:	40.2 KB 
ID:	22908  

  7. #7
    Mentor Kick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Amsterdam, The Netherlands
    Posts
    823
    I would find myself a thin piece of the same timber and fill it before glueing the neck and before the stain.
    Nr 1: Red Widow LP-1MQ (Finished) ->Diary<-

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    North East UK
    Posts
    356
    I'm hoping an off cut from the headstock is big enough ..if I can find it...and sand it thin enough, glue it in place then stain, before bolting the neck on otherwise a little trip to the local wood store tomorrow find if they have veneer there..

  9. #9
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    10,547
    I've bought a couple of mixed marquetry veneer packs from eBay to provide wood for thin fills like that. You are unlikely to get a 100% match, even with the same type of wood, but you should get close enough. Just really clamp it tight when gluing, in order to get as thin a line of glue as possible.

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    North East UK
    Posts
    356
    Found a local hobby shop where I will go tomorrow who sell thin modellers strips of basswood cheap, and as the body is basswood, will cut and glue one to size, sand a little if needed, then stain before assembly of the guitar... perfect...

    240 grit too smooth to stain basswood?... I had started it with 180, then the grandson turned up and got interested so let him have a go, he was enjoying it, so left him alone for a while in the garage..he's 17 btw... when i went back he has a perfect finish on the guitar back.... he had changed to a 240 grit he thought was better....

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •