MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build

[JohnH]

Got more done yesterday - routed out the control cavity, and drilled the output jack hole. Had to do some Macguyver work to get the body perpendicular to the drill press, but after much effing about I got it to work. I'd seen a bunch of people online say they drill the output jack hole by hand, so I tried on a piece of scrap wood with absolutely 0 result. I really can't imagine how they're doing it.

Apart from sanding the neck, the rest will have to wait til the kids are back at daycare. I found some white plastic binding in my shed, from a repair project a few years ago. I think I'll use it to bind the front and hide/remove those large chips.

[stan]

great job!

for tricky holes by hand, I drill a fine pilot hole, the simply increase bit sizes. Done gradually it usually (...usually) works out pretty well

[JohnH]

great job!

for tricky holes by hand, I drill a fine pilot hole, the simply increase bit sizes. Done gradually it usually (...usually) works out pretty well

Ah, that's a good idea. I had drilled a pilot hole, but then went straight to the forstner bit, which wandered like crazy when I drilled by hand.

[JohnH]

Thanks to some very obliging siblings/parents-in-law/spouse I managed another few child free hours today. Got the Stewmac humbucker template today too, so routed the humbucker cavities, spent some time going back around the body to make sure it's all nice and smooth and the curves look ok, and that the sides are actually square to the top and back.

Forgot to get pics, so will try to remember tomorrow. It's looking much better though.

Tomorrow I'll try drilling the holes for the wires - from the neck down through the PU cavities and then across to the control cavity. A few questions though:

Firstly, How wide should the holes be? I've got one long 8mm drill bit kicking around, which looks plenty wide when I compare it to the collection of wires that will be going through, but I feel like this could be one of those situations where just because something looks fine doesn't mean it is. If it should be more or less wide I figured it's better to find out now, rather than when I come to wire the whole thing up.

Secondly, to ground the hardtail bridge, do I drill from below the bridge position across to the control cavity? (I'm working on the assumption that it needs to be grounded.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, the new and improved Stewmac routing template is MUCH better than the previous one, for anyone thinking about getting one. The postage is ludicrous, but it's pretty solid, and handily has depth measurements engraved into it so you know how deep to route. I wouldn't have recommended the previous version, but I'm pretty happy with this new one. Makes me glad I accidentally routed through the last one lol

[WeirdBits]

6-8mm is fine, depending on what wires you'll be feeding through it. Get a scrap piece of wood and drill a test hole then feed all the wires you think you'll need through it (pickups, shield wire etc) and that'll tell you.

For a hardtail you can go from under the bridge to the control cavity or, for a shorter path, to the bridge pup rout. A long 3mm bit works well. To the pickup rout is safer if you're concerned (I did it here).

[JohnH]

For a hardtail you can go from under the bridge to the control cavity or, for a shorter path, to the bridge pup rout. A long 3mm works well. To the pickup rout is safer if you're concerned (I did it here).

Ahhh, yeah cool. That definitely looks less daunting, thanks!

[JohnH]

Got the wiring holes drilled today. Bit nerve wracking, but no real drama. Accidentally chipped the opposite wall of the control cavity when I went through - didn't think to protect it with something, but I guess I'll know for next time (or should have marked my bit with tape so I knew when I was about to go through)...

As mentioned previously, the ply top dented and chipped like crazy when I first cut it to shape, so there are a few little dings and chipped edges to fill, but I think with some grain filler and a good sand, in combo with the binding it should pretty well fix them all up.



Was going to drill the hole for the endpin screw too, but then when faced with all those layers of ply I wasn't sure where it's best to put it structurally. Do you guys reckon I should go dead centre (i.e. there's 15 layers, so just into the centre layer of ply), or between layers? Or it makes no difference?



EDIT: that centre line looks wonky in the pic, but guarantee it's actually square in real life.

[WeirdBits]

If you're worried you could always try drilling a largish hole for a dowel plug (it'll be covered by the strap button) and then mount the screw in that.

[JohnH]

If you're worried you could always try drilling a largish hole for a dowel plug (it'll be covered by the strap button) and then mount the screw in that.

Good thinking, will give that a go (might do a test first lol). The screws aren't all that short, but I guess all that grain going in different directions and all that glue just leave me wondering how stable a screw is once it's in there. Dowel's a great idea.

[JohnH]

Another noob question for the forum hive-mind, but if I'm finishing the maple neck in tru-oil, do I also use the TO on the fretboard? Or should I use something else?