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Thread: Teamjeffo's first build! FS-1

  1. #31
    Member teamjeffo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy40 View Post
    Hmmmm, was it printed with ink jet or laser? if it was laser, thats really odd....I've covered laser jetted decals with Dingotone, Tru oil, poly, nitro and acrylic and its never happened to me.
    I bought by it through Rothko & Frost. I'm assuming it was inkjet


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    Build 1: FS-1 Complete http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7754

    Build 2: RCA-4 Complete http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8091

    Gear: Fender Strat MIM 2017 (Gilmour baby!), Maton MS500, Fender Telecaster CIJ 1983 (70's Strat neck and heavily modded), Pitbull "Flinty Yeah-Nahcaster" FS-1, Pitbull "Chickenf*cker" RCA-4, Seagull S6 Cedar-top, Blackstar HT-60 Stage MkI, Line-6 Helix FX, Hartke HD50

  2. #32
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    from the R&F website: "All of our inks are opaque and waterproof so the colour of the design is not affected by the colour of the surface which the decal is applied to".

    However it doesn't say it's oil proof.

    I'd imagine they are laser inks, not inkjet, as I'm pretty sure you'd only get metallics from a laser printer metallic colours. I'm also assuming that the outline on your Fender-style font is silver.

  3. #33
    Member teamjeffo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    from the R&F website: "All of our inks are opaque and waterproof so the colour of the design is not affected by the colour of the surface which the decal is applied to".

    However it doesn't say it's oil proof.

    I'd imagine they are laser inks, not inkjet, as I'm pretty sure you'd only get metallics from a laser printer metallic colours. I'm also assuming that the outline on your Fender-style font is silver.
    Was gold, but the whole thing disappeared without a trace!! If only my car was that easy to clean


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    Build 1: FS-1 Complete http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7754

    Build 2: RCA-4 Complete http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8091

    Gear: Fender Strat MIM 2017 (Gilmour baby!), Maton MS500, Fender Telecaster CIJ 1983 (70's Strat neck and heavily modded), Pitbull "Flinty Yeah-Nahcaster" FS-1, Pitbull "Chickenf*cker" RCA-4, Seagull S6 Cedar-top, Blackstar HT-60 Stage MkI, Line-6 Helix FX, Hartke HD50

  4. #34
    Overlord of Music andrewdosborne's Avatar
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    I used an R&F decal on my recent Es-5V build. The instructions stated not compatible with Tru Oil. I ended up putting the decal on a Tru Oiled finished headstock, left for 24 hrs to dry then carefully dabbed a coat of gloss wipe-on-poly over it. Left that for another 24 hrs then slowly built up about 6-8 coats over a week to cover it

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  6. #35
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    You could probably just spray a couple of coats of lacquer over the decal first, before any soaking, This should then take tru-oil over the top once the decal is on and dried. R&F mention that they can do this for you before they send the decals out, so you ought to be able to do it yourself.

  7. #36
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    Could be the Wudtone finish... exactly the same happened to me, stuck on fine, took the first finishing top coat, second one wiped it clean

  8. #37
    Member teamjeffo's Avatar
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    I bought a can of MIROTONE Spraylac, which I intend on giving a quick spray over the next waterslide when they arrive (my back up one teared, and then my wife had to calm me down).

    Has anyone had any experience with the Mirotone?

    My plan as mentioned above (if no-one tells me I am about to cause a disaster), is a few coats of the lacquer to seal in the decal.




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    Build 1: FS-1 Complete http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7754

    Build 2: RCA-4 Complete http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8091

    Gear: Fender Strat MIM 2017 (Gilmour baby!), Maton MS500, Fender Telecaster CIJ 1983 (70's Strat neck and heavily modded), Pitbull "Flinty Yeah-Nahcaster" FS-1, Pitbull "Chickenf*cker" RCA-4, Seagull S6 Cedar-top, Blackstar HT-60 Stage MkI, Line-6 Helix FX, Hartke HD50

  9. #38
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    never used it before, sorry
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  10. #39
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Pretty nasty stuff with Toluene and Formaldyhyde in it. Here's the MSDS http://www.mirotone.com/wp-content/u...05-2013-01.pdf

    Definitely use a vapour mask, gloves, eye protection, covered skin etc. (but basically all the precautions you should use with any spray finish). But certainly don't use it in the house.

    It would appear to be a resin-based finish, rather than poly or acrylic and as such I really don't know how it would react if you then put something else over it. I also don't know how it would react with the decal ink.

    I'd try it out on that bit of torn decal (if you've still got it) and see what happens. You can also then try your choice of final finish over the top to check for any reaction.

  11. #40
    Member teamjeffo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy40 View Post
    nah peasy as man. after scraping I usually polish mine with 1200 grit and 2000 grit
    Andy, I think your autocorrect malfunctioned, and "peasy" was swapped for "terrifying"


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    Build 1: FS-1 Complete http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7754

    Build 2: RCA-4 Complete http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8091

    Gear: Fender Strat MIM 2017 (Gilmour baby!), Maton MS500, Fender Telecaster CIJ 1983 (70's Strat neck and heavily modded), Pitbull "Flinty Yeah-Nahcaster" FS-1, Pitbull "Chickenf*cker" RCA-4, Seagull S6 Cedar-top, Blackstar HT-60 Stage MkI, Line-6 Helix FX, Hartke HD50

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